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Does anybody have a good explanation on how to adjust the rear brake pedal after installing peg lowering blocks?

I just installed the blocks and looks confusing on how to accomplish getting the rear brake lever an inch lower.
 

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It is a little difficult because the lock nut on the brake cylinder rod is unusually thin. Add to that the rubber boot over the rod and adjusting nut and things get very tight. I had to find a somewhat rare extra-thin 10mm box-end wrench to get in there. I actually ordered the replacement linkage part sold by the same company where I bought the peg-lowering kit, but I decided not to use it. I maybe should have, but all is well now.

You have to shorten the adjusting distance on end of the rod that pushes the brake cylinder. Since it's on the back of the pedal, the direction you turn to shorten the length -- which lowers the front of the brake pedal -- is backwards to what seems intuitive. Play with it a little and you'll see what to do more clearly.

Once I had lowered the brake pedal, another problem appeared. The brake light switch spring connection to the brake pedal was now stretched downward and tended to not turn off the brake light when releasing the pedal. It was actually right on the edge of coming on without pushing the pedal, just from bumps in the road. One of the guys I ride with told me about it. Very confusing to him, especially in corners. It was obvious the switch needed to also be moved down, but how? It was behind the entire peg and brake pedal mounting assembly and couldn't be accessed.

Then I discovered it. Undo the three bolts that hold the entire assembly. The whole piece can be moved outward to access the brake switch and then screw in downward to a more correct relationship with the pedal. It's easy to do once you move the assembly outward and can get your fingers in there to screw the light switch unit down. As you move this assembly outward for access, be aware you are also bending the brake line going from the rear brake cylinder to the ABS unit. There is enough flexibility design into the line's routing to do this, but be careful not to twist or kink the line. When you put it all back in place, check that the brake line is positioned back where it is supposed to be also.

I have almost 10K miles on my 2015 N1K, most of those with lowered pegs. Life is good.
 

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Just installed the lowering blocks and adjusted the rod (per the instructions) as low as it would go which did move the brake pedal downward a bit but not enough. I see no other way to get my brake pedal lower. BTW, according to the service manual, that adjustment calls for the pedal to be 2.4" lower that the top of the footpeg and I have about one inch. Anybody know of a solution to lower it further?
 

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I may be able to answer my own question. Looking at the website where I bought the lowering blocks (MotoWerk), I see now they also offer an accessory adjusting nut to get the pedal even lower. I ordered it and will see soon how that works out.
 
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Pedal

I may be able to answer my own question. Looking at the website where I bought the lowering blocks (MotoWerk), I see now they also offer an accessory adjusting nut to get the pedal even lower. I ordered it and will see soon how that works out.
Let us know how its works out...I need to do something to help my damaged knees get some relief....hope it works
 

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Let us know how its works out...I need to do something to help my damaged knees get some relief....hope it works
Give me about a week to receive and install the adjuster nut and I'll report back. Just looking at the pic of the nut, I can already see it will help quite a bit just because the length of the nut is considerably shorter than the stock clevis.
 

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Hornblower..have you also changed the handle bar design?
If you mean risers...then, yes! I added Murphs' risers. The only issue there was needing to remove the locator pins to get a better angle on the controls. Between the lowering blocks and the risers (and my new Sargent seat), the touring capability has been greatly enhanced.
 

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You can get a fair amount of legroom but getting rid of the rubber coated pegs and going with ones for the 636. It made a significant difference and far cheaper than the peg lower kits.

I also addressed legroom a bit in another way. When I had the local upholstery shop remake my seat I had them raise it a bit. Now I have far more legroom than I would with peg lowering kit and most of the aftermarket seats out there.

I can now easily do 700 miles in a day. Total investment of seat mod and pegs is $160. I am ok with the bars for now. It is a good balance for me as at higher speeds, the wind takes a lot of the load off my arms and with a cruise control setup, I can move around a bit more on the bars as well. I thought about the Murphs but for me they are overpriced and I was concerned it might make the vibration issues the bike has worse. Not to mention my biggest issue with the bars isn't the height as much as the sweep. Murphs does nothing to address that. I would like the bars less swept back from the centerline. That would also give me more leverage as well.
 

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New Pegs

Changing the foot pegs seems a cost efficient way to get some favorable relief....i hope.....several people have mentioned this modification
 

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Give me about a week to receive and install the adjuster nut and I'll report back. Just looking at the pic of the nut, I can already see it will help quite a bit just because the length of the nut is considerably shorter than the stock clevis.
Installed the brake lever adjustment nut today. The design of this nut does allow some additional adjustment but, in my case, I also had to slightly shorten the threaded shaft to make room for the needed adjustment. The instructions from Motowerk did mention that might be necessary. Of course, I had to also adjust the brake light switch again (no surprise there) but, in the end, all worked out just great. It seems to me that most riders ordering these lowering blocks might as well order the special adjustment nut to go along with it.
 
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Lowering blocks

Glad its working out Hornblower.....Does the kit drop the peg position directly
down and keep the front to back location the same?
 

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When I just swapped out the footpegs, I didn't have to adjust much so that was a plus.

Then again, you could go with the 636 footpegs AND the lower kit and get even more leg room if needed. The problem with the lower blocks is you lose ground clearance. Going with the 636 pegs, I see no lose of ground clearance but gained the leg room I needed.
 

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Glad its working out Hornblower.....Does the kit drop the peg position directly
down and keep the front to back location the same?
Motowerk says it drops straight down but, considering the peg mount is angled, it appears to move the peg slightly forward as well. We're not talking about much movement at all though. Here's a pic off the Motowerk site:

http://shop.motowerk.com/images/1319773166041931523658.jpeg
 

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The problem with the lower blocks is you lose ground clearance.
No doubt about it. However, for my moderate spirited riding, I don't THINK it's going to present a problem (I still see chicken strips on the tires :eek:). I haven't even come close to the peg feelers with the pegs in stock position so if I touch down now that will just be an indicator that I've gone far enough.
 

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When you put on the new Pirelli Angel GTs maybe you'll find a bit more lean angle... :)
That could definitely happen :). I have a faster group of riding buddies based in the Western NC mountains so I'll be putting on the Angels before I join up with them. Until then, I plan to get a bit more life out of the stock tires.
 

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So as a tall guy wanting to get himself a bit more leg room, and now that you have it completed, what's your overall opinion of the lowering pegs? Worth the money and effort? kinda worth it? not worth it?
 

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So as a tall guy wanting to get himself a bit more leg room, and now that you have it completed, what's your overall opinion of the lowering pegs? Worth the money and effort? kinda worth it? not worth it?
As far as knee angle goes, I don't feel a lot of difference. No doubt, this mod helps to add a bit more leg room but don't expect a big change. I guess I would do it again but it is a fair amount of trouble to install and it isn't cheap.
 
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