Brake pedal adjustment?

It is a little difficult because the lock nut on the brake cylinder rod is unusually thin. Add to that the rubber boot over the rod and adjusting nut and things get very tight. I had to find a somewhat rare extra-thin 10mm box-end wrench to get in there. I actually ordered the replacement linkage part sold by the same company where I bought the peg-lowering kit, but I decided not to use it. I maybe should have, but all is well now.

You have to shorten the adjusting distance on end of the rod that pushes the brake cylinder. Since it's on the back of the pedal, the direction you turn to shorten the length -- which lowers the front of the brake pedal -- is backwards to what seems intuitive. Play with it a little and you'll see what to do more clearly.

Once I had lowered the brake pedal, another problem appeared. The brake light switch spring connection to the brake pedal was now stretched downward and tended to not turn off the brake light when releasing the pedal. It was actually right on the edge of coming on without pushing the pedal, just from bumps in the road. One of the guys I ride with told me about it. Very confusing to him, especially in corners. It was obvious the switch needed to also be moved down, but how? It was behind the entire peg and brake pedal mounting assembly and couldn't be accessed.

Then I discovered it. Undo the three bolts that hold the entire assembly. The whole piece can be moved outward to access the brake switch and then screw in downward to a more correct relationship with the pedal. It's easy to do once you move the assembly outward and can get your fingers in there to screw the light switch unit down. As you move this assembly outward for access, be aware you are also bending the brake line going from the rear brake cylinder to the ABS unit. There is enough flexibility design into the line's routing to do this, but be careful not to twist or kink the line. When you put it all back in place, check that the brake line is positioned back where it is supposed to be also.

I have almost 10K miles on my 2015 N1K, most of those with lowered pegs. Life is good.

You can get a fair amount of legroom but getting rid of the rubber coated pegs and going with ones for the 636. It made a significant difference and far cheaper than the peg lower kits.

I also addressed legroom a bit in another way. When I had the local upholstery shop remake my seat I had them raise it a bit. Now I have far more legroom than I would with peg lowering kit and most of the aftermarket seats out there.

I can now easily do 700 miles in a day. Total investment of seat mod and pegs is $160. I am ok with the bars for now. It is a good balance for me as at higher speeds, the wind takes a lot of the load off my arms and with a cruise control setup, I can move around a bit more on the bars as well. I thought about the Murphs but for me they are overpriced and I was concerned it might make the vibration issues the bike has worse. Not to mention my biggest issue with the bars isn't the height as much as the sweep. Murphs does nothing to address that. I would like the bars less swept back from the centerline. That would also give me more leverage as well.