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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering how you guys do it. Upper? Lower? Along the sprocket? I chose lower as to lesson coating everything but that only gives me access to 5 links at a time so I've been rolling to bike along the driveway. Hit the 5 exposed links, roll forward, repeat. I'm broke this month after paying property tax but next month I'm going to buy a rear stand so I can put it up on the stand and just spin it. Unless someone has a more creative way?
 

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By a rear jack stand (and spools or bolts to use it) at harbor freight

Lift rear of bike.. either spin wheel manually or let it idle in first. Be careful if you are idling that you use something that wont catch. You want to be able to count to 10 and be able to ride it :)
 

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At home I use a rear stand. On trips I carry a quick-stand which is similar to the hammer method but it packs down smaller and includes a front brake strap (to keep the bike from rolling forwards off the sidestand).

Start with a warm bike (20+ minutes of riding).

I spray onto the rear outside of the sprocket; it's enough to get it on the rollers and it will work its way outwards.

Then let the bike sit until it cools off.

I do this every 500 miles or so; every oil change I also use Motorex 622 to clean the chain, then re-lube it.
 

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For thought...I used to be completely obssessed with cleaning and lubing my chain. I would easily get 30k out of a chain. I now clean and lube maybe 4 or 5 times a season. I still get 30k out of a chain.
 

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To lift the bike to to Oil loube check this vide from Salt_the_Wond he is a member here with a nice channel. This is the cheapest way. I personally bought a jack $59.99 with Spools. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzGeucjwpTY
The "friction"?? I think he meant "centrifugal force", you would think if you were making a youtube video that you would have some basic idea of what you were taking about. On another note the hammer was a great idea.
 

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oil the chain

By a rear jack stand (and spools or bolts to use it) at harbor freight

Lift rear of bike.. either spin wheel manually or let it idle in first. Be careful if you are idling that you use something that wont catch. You want to be able to count to 10 and be able to ride it :)

Sorry, do not oil the chain with the bike in gear and motor running. Without a stand you have to roll as you already know..but as stated cheap lifting devices are available at Horrible Freight
 

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At home I use a rear stand. On trips I carry a quick-stand which is similar to the hammer method but it packs down smaller and includes a front brake strap (to keep the bike from rolling forwards off the sidestand).
Is there any other place to buy this? I've been trying to get one since Last Winter... I emailed and never got a response either..

~Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For thought...I used to be completely obssessed with cleaning and lubing my chain. I would easily get 30k out of a chain. I now clean and lube maybe 4 or 5 times a season. I still get 30k out of a chain.
Can you do me a favor next time you replace your chain. If you get that much milage out of it, measure the old with the new and let us know the difference i.e. stretch. Thanks.
 

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pACKjACK

Is there any other place to buy this? I've been trying to get one since Last Winter... I emailed and never got a response either..

~Mark
SOMEONE mentioned they carry a PackJack with them for lifting the rear wheel off ground during travel......
 

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SOMEONE mentioned they carry a PackJack with them for lifting the rear wheel off ground during travel......
Thanks..

I got lucky last evening as I ran across a thread (multiple on here and another fourm) with that mentioned. I emailed the PackJack people and I got an answer already.. I now have an order in for it..

I ordered the new RS Adjustable Axle PackJack. He called it RS adjustable, no idea what the RS means..

He said it should fit my N1k (with spools) and our Ninja 500 (no center stand anymore)..

I guess the snap jack people are either making way too much money to answer emails or they don't make them anymore..

As for the hammer guy, I found that youtube video last night.. I've watched a few of his now.. I'm assuming I found the guy you are talking about as I don't think too many people do it that way... I'm not sold on how he sprays the lube down as it looks like it's going to overspray the tire and rim.. I live on a dirt road and the last thing I need is chain lube on the rims as dirt will really stick to it..

~Mark
 

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I've probably tried everything. PJ-1, Dupont Teflon, Chainguard spray on. It's come down to putting the bike on a rear stand, cleaning with diesel fuel/soap and water, riding it to dry and warm, using 80 wgt gear oil and applying with a 20CC syringe and needle to place a drop on each link. Just a bit slower than spray, much less mess/waste, and I got 30K+ miles from my last chain drive bike. I changed another at 27K. Don't remember the numbers, but the difference was negligible. I also keep my chain adjusted. Still need to get me a PackJack.

Driving style and adjustment will determine a lot of how a chain lasts. Tight chains, hard acceleration/deaccleration, these have a big affect on chain wear
 

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I've used just about every chain lube on the market but have just tried one new to me, Motul Chain Paste. Comes in a squeeze container with an attached brush, Motul recommends brushing it on the bottom links of the the chain. It's thick & hasn't flung off. Gonna keep using it.
 

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chain lube

I use pj1 or motul and probably overapply...but I wipe down the chain with a paper towel or cloth when done...i put it on the chain and not the wheel...any overspray on wheel easy off with wd-40 on paper towel
 

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I use a rear stand as well. Or you can get one of those roller choke things but i never fully understood that. If you are going to pay that kind of money for something like that, just get a rear stand?

I usually oil my chain between 500-1000mi. If I notice its particularly gunked up, I soak it in mineral spirits first, take a grub brush or chain brush to it, dry it, and then relube it with a quality wax based lubricant. I tend to use bellray, since it goes on nice and you can see the wax, unlike some other brands that tend to run and then dry out leaving almost no trace of lube after one or two rides.

-dan
 
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I'm super anal retentive about cleaning and lubing my chain. I have a spools and a stand for starters. When I wash the bike I put the bike on the stand and scrub the chain with a brush and citrus degreaser then I'll hose it off. While doing this, I also clean the rear wheel and sprocket. After the bike is washed and dried I spray the chain down with WD-40. I use a piece of rectangular shaped cardboard that I place behind the chain and in front of the rear wheel. Then I spray the chain with WD-40 and wipe it down several times with an old t-shirt. Nothing breaks down dirty grease like WD. (BTW, if your rear wheel is covered in grease take a dry piece of cloth and spray it down with WD then simply wipe the grease away) If I plan on riding immediately, I'll spray it down with another heavier lube but I usually let it soak and apply Chain Wax the night before a big ride. I have V&H Urban Brawlers on my Ninja so chain access is quite a bit easier compared to those giant OEM mufflers.

On another note, I sold a Harley XR1200 before I bought my Ninja. Harley's have a lot of short comings but man that belt drive sure is nice. Quiet, smooth, long lasting and no maintenance.
 

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Chains without a centerstand are a PITA on a trip. This is one thing I clearly don't like about the bike and there is no option of adding one like on some of my other bikes. ASAP I plan to add a chain oiler.
 
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