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OK, since all our bikes come with these functions built in I gotta ask...why?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The simplest answer is I have it already. I upgraded the speedo on the plated dirt bike it was originally on. It was a relatively easy retro fit on the N1k.

I like that I can calibrated mph to be right on the money, so a quick glance tells me my exact speed, without having to do math in my head with the OEM speedo number.

It has some functions not in the OEM clock. Most of the time, I have voltage on the top row. I use the additional trip meters for service reminders. One for chain, one for general service interval, which I reference with engine hours to decide whether it's time for oil change.

Also, the speed sensor is installed on the front wheel, which combined with the OEM speedo basing off rear wheel ABS sensor would make a "poorman's TPMS". A speed differential off from the usual spread would indicate low psi in one tire or the other.

Lastly, I'm not a big fan of the reverse LCD on my '18, which can be somewhat difficult to read under some lighting condition. The Koso LCD is very easy to read, especially in bright direct sunlight.

Anyhow, none of the reasons are really all that compelling in and of themselves, but overall, I like having it there. Especially since it's already bought and paid for.
 

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I could never get the clip-ons to work, tried both apex and Driven, both seem to hit the front fairing on full lock....
 

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Fair enough. I can get some of that from the GPS and have a voltmeter/usb port mounted but agree the LCD on my '18 sucks. Difficult to read under about 75% of all lighting conditions.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
I could never get the clip-ons to work, tried both apex and Driven, both seem to hit the front fairing on full lock....
IMO the main problem with the Apex is the position of the clip-on band screws, which are right where the "step" is on the Kawi top triple. This forces you to do one of 4 things:

1. clock the screws on the top side
2. clock the screws on the bottom side (what I did)
3. lift the clip-on above the "step" and clock the screws for best handlebar positions
4. eliminate the "step" (a bit drastic, and a permanent mod, which I try to avoid)

If Apex had clocked the screws elsewhere (or if the top triple didn't have the step), there will be a lot more freedom to change the position of the handlebars, possibly avoiding contact with the windscreen. But... as is, I was able to get the problematic right side to clear the National Cycle Vstream Touring screen in the middle and high positions. Since I don't ever ride with the screen in the low position, it works well enough for me. The stock screen was hopeless with the Apex.

Even though the install wasn't perfect, I still consider this the best mod I did on the N1k, as far as improving how the rider engages the motorcycle. The rider ergos are much closer to what I consider optimal for a gentleman's sportbike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Fair enough. I can get some of that from the GPS and have a voltmeter/usb port mounted but agree the LCD on my '18 sucks. Difficult to read under about 75% of all lighting conditions.
That's why I didn't post a review or say anything about it. At the cost of basically a few hours of my time, I like having it, but it's probably not worth the while for most riders.

BTW, those USB ports with built-in voltmeter are really nice, I have one on my K16GT, which has a [email protected] fancy instrument panel that is pretty useless. I just so happen to have a dual USB port (no voltmeter) that I picked up on clearance yrs ago but never did install it on various other bikes. It went into slot on the left dash perfectly, so it worked out in this case.
 

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IMO the main problem with the Apex is the position of the clip-on band screws, which are right where the "step" is on the Kawi top triple. This forces you to do one of 4 things:

1. clock the screws on the top side
2. clock the screws on the bottom side (what I did)
3. lift the clip-on above the "step" and clock the screws for best handlebar positions
4. eliminate the "step" (a bit drastic, and a permanent mod, which I try to avoid)

If Apex had clocked the screws elsewhere (or if the top triple didn't have the step), there will be a lot more freedom to change the position of the handlebars, possibly avoiding contact with the windscreen. But... as is, I was able to get the problematic right side to clear the National Cycle Vstream Touring screen in the middle and high positions. Since I don't ever ride with the screen in the low position, it works well enough for me. The stock screen was hopeless with the Apex.

Even though the install wasn't perfect, I still consider this the best mod I did on the N1k, as far as improving how the rider engages the motorcycle. The rider ergos are much closer to what I consider optimal for a gentleman's sportbike.
Funny, in my case it is not even going near the screen, seems to be hitting the fairing below the screen.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Mine cleared the fairing below no problem on either side. There is still some clearance if I wanted the levers tilted down some. I prefer my fingers resting on the levers to be straight inline with my forearm, so that's how I have them adjusted in the pics.

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A person can always buy bars, and often times that is the perfect thing to do. In fact, they have to.

Please understand....this isnt to pick on anyone, or to make someone look bad. The lever setting you see in Volfys pictures are dangerous. This forces a bend in the wrist that's not supposed to be there. You cant steer, or brake properly with levers sitting this high.

This isnt my idea, or point of view. Heres a video, from an expert. People pay him to point out stupid things they do. The smart ones listen. The others? I dont know.

If a person is new, or old, this idea can apply. We are very adaptable as humans. With that said, it's important not to confuse "adapted" with "correct". Levers that are set that high wont allow you to make an informed decision about the stock bars. I agree...with levers that high, theres no way the stock bars will work well.

This idea is free, and you can always go back to a messed up position, but you owe it to yourself to try free before changing bars and ending up with an abortion like the above photos.

 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
If you read what I described in my previous post, it is exactly as Moss prescribed in his video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
A person can always buy bars, and often times that is the perfect thing to do. In fact, they have to.

Please understand....this isnt to pick on anyone, or to make someone look bad. The lever setting you see in Volfys pictures are dangerous. This forces a bend in the wrist that's not supposed to be there. You cant steer, or brake properly with levers sitting this high.

This isnt my idea, or point of view. Heres a video, from an expert. People pay him to point out stupid things they do. The smart ones listen. The others? I dont know.

If a person is new, or old, this idea can apply. We are very adaptable as humans. With that said, it's important not to confuse "adapted" with "correct". Levers that are set that high wont allow you to make an informed decision about the stock bars. I agree...with levers that high, theres no way the stock bars will work well.

This idea is free, and you can always go back to a messed up position, but you owe it to yourself to try free before changing bars and ending up with an abortion like the above photos.

For your valiant keyboard commando raid, you are hereby awarded the Congressional Medal of What-da-fuh.

Now, where is this mythical dangerous bend in the wrist you speak of? :unsure:

30147
 

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That looks more reasonable. The other pics must have been at a bad angle as they looked really high. High enough to a point where if Dave Moss walked up, he would start hitting you with his ratchet rather than adjusting anything.

Kawasaki sends the bike out with the levers adjusted to a high position and it makes the bars feel worse than they really are.

You should put he screw back into the right hand switch if you havent done so.

I will pm you with my address. I want that medal. It can hang right next to the one I received at the Special Olympics. My 100 yard dash time wasnt amazing, at One Hour and 37 minutes, but my parents were proud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
LOL... I knew if anybody was gonna catch that missing screw, it would be you. :LOL:

In all fairness, I can see why the first pics might seem high. The whole purpose of switching to these Apex clip-ons was to impart a more sportbike-like engagement with the bike. That does mean more forward lean and, as I always do, bend my elbows a good bit to keep my arms relaxed (again, the chick dance). My forearms are not quite level to the ground, like they would on my track bunny at full tuck, but close enough to be effective/efficient for steering.

If I were to straighten/stiffen my arms in an effort to sit up as upright as possible, like a lot of riders might be tempted to do... then I would indeed have a slight upward bend in my wrist. That - as you correctly pointed out - is not the best riding posture, for more reasons than one.
 

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You are a classic, one of a kind guy Volfy. I'm glad you are here. Your posts always make my day better.
 

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You know, back in the early days, it was common for ninja 1000 to remove the small, location bolt on the handlebars.

You still had the large pinch bolt to secure them, butremoving the bolt did alow for a tiny amount of adjustment. Nothing like the good bars, like Volfy has, but it was something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Not too bad for a $0 mod that let you tweak the "sweep" or "pullback" of the handlebars. Then there is still four other parameters that remain: "width, "reach", "height" and "drop".

For me, while the stock handlebar position could use a little more "sweep", but what bothers me a lot more is the lack of any "drop". To me, the almost straight across bars feel too much like riding a naked roadster, or dirtbike even. I bet a lot of riders actually prefer this, seeing as how popular it is on all the ADV bikes. That's my guess as to why Kawi set them up like that. Me? I much prefer to have a good bit of drop, which is much more in line with sport and sport-touring bikes. Heck, even my K1600GT has more drop.

The Apex bars allowed me to set up about the right amount of drop and sweep. Width is about 1/2" narrower, which is hardly noticeable. Height is lower, which I'm okay with and actually prefer it. The only thing I wish I had more control over is the reach. Because of the way I clocked the clip-on pinch bolts, the reach is farther compared to stock. It's not enough to bother me, but it does cause the brake lever assembly to interfere with the windscreen. If I could've reduce the reach by 1/2", the whole setup would have been spot-on perfect. Oh well. Close enough. :)
 

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The zero mod didnt allow much range before the bar hit the fairing, or the tank......it was worth @ what it sold for.

When I added my longer shock, the stock bars became tolerable. The back end being higher made the bars feel lower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Thought I'd add an update on the Apex clip-on install. One problem I had with them is that the stock bard end weights no longer had a convenient way of attaching to the Apex bars. The stock handlebars have a welded-on nut to receive the M8(?) screw that tighten the bar end weight on. For a while, I was using a compression rubber plug to hold the bar end weight on, but it just was not all that secure. Besides, with the way I set up the Apex bars and the ZX10R mirrors, those stock bar end weights end up blocking the view of what's directly behind me. Not a huge deal, but annoying nevertheless.

So, I ended up working out a solution that killed two birds with one stone. I bought a 12" section of carbon steel 3/4"-16NF threaded rod and cut 2 sections that are about as long as my 3/4"-16NF tap would reach inside the handlebar.
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Because the threaded rod will go all the way inside the handlebar, I needed to have a way to drive the rod in and out. I cut the ends to a hex profile so I can engage a 13mm socket, which is the largest that will just fit inside the handlebar ID.
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Drill & tap the outside end to receive an M8 screw:
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Spray paint the ends for corrosion prevention, and they finished up at a little under 6 Oz. each. Brass or bronze would be a little heavier but not worth the substantial cost increase.
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Capped off with a thin end plate, bought off ebay.
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Riding impressions...

As I expected, these do not dampen vibration nearly as well as stock bar end weight on stock handlebars. I can feel a small bit of buzz at lower revs, below 4k RPM. Realistically, that doesn't bother me much, as the vibration at the lower revs are rather mild to begin with. What I wanted tamed are strong buzz at higher RPM (> 6k). These actually do a pretty good job at that.

Best of all, I now have an unobstructed view of what's directly behind me in the ZX-10R mirrors. Overall, I'm quite happy with the results.

This is probably a mod that doesn't have broad application. If you have stock handlebars, there is next to no reason for trying something like this. Even if you swap to Apex risers like I have, as long as you have stock mirrors on, the bar end weight won't block you rear view. I posted it here mostly for information on what can be done, in case you might have an application that requires internal bar weights.
 
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