Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
960 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So,with the extra time on my hands, I figured a full fork service would go well with my Penske shock service. I already had fresh fluid and new OEM seals / bushings sitting on the shelf...might as well use them....

I didn't really need to replace the seals (were't leaking) but of course replacing the seals is a necessity anytime you pull them apart. The bushings looked to be in great shape after around 46,000 kms (28,000 miles). I didn't change the bushings when I installed the AK20's so fluid and seals had 27,000 kms (16,000 miles) on them. I would have had no problem reusing the old bushings but I had the new ones anyway.

I did not have new wiper seals and I wish I did as there was a couple tiny cuts / cracks on both of mine but they were on the side (not the lip) so I can keep an eye on them. Plus they are relatively easy to swap at the next tire change.

The actual AK20 cartridge shafts looked brand new, zero marks or wear on any the rods. Just pumped the old oil out and reassembled.

The fork oil didn't have the usual stink I was expecting and didn't look that bad color-wise except for the small amount that was sitting on the very bottom of the fork. There it was flakes of what I think was teflon from the bushings as they were very soft and thin and almost impossible to feel between your fingers. Overall, the oil was much cleaner than I thought it would be.

Going forward, I'll change the oil every couple years (and change out those wiper seals) but it will be a long time before it needs a full rebuild again.
 

·
Registered
A Black 2019 N1K
Joined
·
346 Posts
If I may, two quick questions :--

1) You mention that the fluid had 27,000 km of use, but how many months/years was this ?? My understanding is that oil (fork, shock or engine) degrades with both time and use.

2) At the risk of starting yet another oil discussion, what brand and grade fork oil did you use ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
960 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
If I may, two quick questions :--

1) You mention that the fluid had 27,000 km of use, but how many months/years was this ?? My understanding is that oil (fork, shock or engine) degrades with both time and use.

2) At the risk of starting yet another oil discussion, what brand and grade fork oil did you use ??

Phew, easy questions.......:grin:

1) 3 riding seasons

2) Traxxion Dyanamics (who makes the cartridges) specifically recommends Maxima 125/150 7wt Suspension Fluid.
 

·
Registered
A Black 2019 N1K
Joined
·
346 Posts
Phew, easy questions.......

1) 3 riding seasons

2) Traxxion Dyanamics (who makes the cartridges) specifically recommends Maxima 125/150 7wt Suspension Fluid.

Thanks. When I had my forks reworked by RaceTech here in Oz, they suggested new fork oil, bushings & seals every 20,000 kms / 2 years, which I thought was a bit too frequent.

I usually just change the fork oil every "new front tyre" (15,000 km) and do the seals & bushings every second new front tyre (30,000 km).

From your experience, I'll probably stick with that schedule.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,209 Posts
As far as the forks are concerned, traxxion has a hard anodized coating on their cartridges. Their springs are also super clean, and high quality. The stock fork cartridges dont have this coating.

It wouldn't bother me to extend the fork oil change on traction parts. I dont know if you will see that clean with stock cartridges.

Even at that, 2 yrs or 15000km is probably no big deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,209 Posts
Kenors, even if that logic doesnt help....we know that theres a very high chance of nothing going wrong. Ever. That's the bottom line.

So, worst case scenario. Let's say it did. Right now, there is a complete head, on ebay, for 335.00 shipped. Anyone who could do a valve adjust could replace a head. I'll bet the head replace would not add an extra hours worth of work to the valve adjust. Sure, the used head probably needs its adjustment, too, but it would be on the bench when you did it, much easier.

Second plan would be a used ebay engine. Heavy, but easy work to swap. Figure 1200.00 for it. You would get some of that back when you sold the old engine.

With that in mind, I dont know how a person can justify a shop adjusting valves. I think you are correct. If this was an Aprilia, you would be insane not to check. That 3000 you spent would buy 2 or 3 used ninja/z1000 motors. As far as valves go, pretend its disposable.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top