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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
For those that have done it I'm curious as to if it's worth it or if it's suggested to leave it alone. I just got my bike and plan on doing Ivan's and Urban Brawlers. Just ordered a K&N and figured if it's worth it I may do the mod while dropping the filter in. Looking forward to your suggestions.
 

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You don't need to do it. It's more trouble than it's worth. That was a problem for the 11-13's the 14-16's are different I think... I don't remember exactly but I've talked to Ivan about my 15 and he said it wasn't worth it.

Ivan's mod is the best, I highly recommend it. I dunno, I'm not crazy about brawlers. I got the 4-2-1 because it is better, you give up the factory bags but I already have a bagger. if I was doing just slip on's it'd be these :)

The other thing to think about since your doing ivans... if you ever plan on doing a fender eliminator. A good time to do it is when your getting at the box for putting back in from ivans.
 

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Thank you for the reply I really appreciate it. Looking at the dyno graphs on Ivan's site I don't know if it's worth it if I don't do a full system...? I really like the M4's but the price of the Brawlers is so appealing. Also, they never need to be repacked. But, man I like those M4's lol.
 

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I actually just did a tune with Ivan and when I was speaking with him, he specifically asked if I had done the airbox mod yet, and didn't want me to do it. I didn't quiz him as to why but it seemed like it must not have been worth doing for whatever reason. I did get the BMC filter from him, and it seemed like that may be the reason why?

I'd recommend talking to him first before you mod it up :)
 

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X 2 on giving him a call. He is a good guy by every account I've read and both times I've called.
Honestly can't recall anyone having a bad experience with him.


JM2Cs
Kenneth
 

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I , too, can vouch for Ivan. I did the airbox mod per his recommendation (along with his re-flash) and it's great.
 

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Scuba, what you said makes sense.

There are mods that end up accomplishing nothing. Also, if I drill my airbox, and maybe the supplied tune did not account for a modded airbox, now Ive introduced something different into the mix, and who knows what my result will be.

What year bike are we talking about? The 11-13 reflash is different than the 14-16 reflash.

I know, back in 12, we did mod the airbox of our 2011-13 bikes, but maybe that has changed, too?
 

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I'm trying to remember the conversation, as I don't recall exactly what he said. We discussed it because I said I was planning to do it on the form.

If IIRC, he said that the airbox mod takes away a little bit from some of the part throttle drive ability work he's done in the latest non-power commander tune, at the cost of maybe 1hp on the top end. He felt I'd be better off not bothering with the airbox mod and that it was worth the tradeoff. I took his advice and am not doing that.

I think its sound advise that anyone should consider if someone plans to do a tune through him - give him a call, tell him you want to do the tune, so he can help guide the process. He knows his tunes, how they work best and with what mods, etc.

I can see the airbox mod having a marked effect on throttle response - anytime those airbox chambers are modified, on the engine side of the filter or not, to flow more or less air it effects the way the existing velocity stacks work and can cause itchy throttle response and funky lean/rich conditions.
 

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Back when ivan had us modify the airbox, he was pretty exact on the hole sizes we were supposed to use. I done recall the figure, but it just happened to match up with a plastic plug sold at Home depot, or such....

I always wondered what that "cover" does, int he bottom of the airbox. Lets go to this drawing...

2014 Kawasaki NINJA 1000 ABS (ZX1000MEF) Air Cleaner | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

Part number 11065. It looks as if it would make the airbox "smaller", or block off a portion of it...but, its not solid. It has holed drilled in it, on the 14 and later bikes.

Look at the same part, for our older bikes..the 11-13.

2012 Kawasaki NINJA 1000 (ZX1000GCF) Air Cleaner | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

Soemone has to knwo what wtf this is all about?
 

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If IIRC, he said that the airbox mod takes away a little bit from some of the part throttle drive ability work he's done in the latest non-power commander tune,....

So....

- drill if you run the Power Commander tune / map

- don't drill if you run the non-Power Commander reflash / map

Correct ?
 

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So....

- drill if you run the Power Commander tune / map

- don't drill if you run the non-Power Commander reflash / map

Correct ?
I would specifically ask him IMO - he didn't make any type of reference that I shouldn't mod the airbox due to the non-use of a PC. Thought I'd just add that info in that I wasn't planning to use a PC
 

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Back when ivan had us modify the airbox, he was pretty exact on the hole sizes we were supposed to use. I done recall the figure, but it just happened to match up with a plastic plug sold at Home depot, or such....

I always wondered what that "cover" does, int he bottom of the airbox. Lets go to this drawing...

2014 Kawasaki NINJA 1000 ABS (ZX1000MEF) Air Cleaner | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

Part number 11065. It looks as if it would make the airbox "smaller", or block off a portion of it...but, its not solid. It has holed drilled in it, on the 14 and later bikes.

Look at the same part, for our older bikes..the 11-13.

2012 Kawasaki NINJA 1000 (ZX1000GCF) Air Cleaner | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

Soemone has to knwo what wtf this is all about?

Coming from the carb days (I think the same principals still apply), the volume, and amount of inlet restriction always made a night and day difference in how a bike ran. It makes me laugh - back in days of old, I had an old suzuki with KN's on the end of each carb. I bought it like that, and no matter what I did, it never was tuned right. I changed and tweaked everything, and had those carbs out more times I could count. I finally found an old airbox for it, put it on, set the jet kit in the carbs up as spec'd and voila, thing ran better in every which way. I think the K&N's made a slight difference at high rpm's @ WOT, but to **** with paying for that in idle and part throttle ops. The lack of intake volume and no air restriction made those carbs most unhappy. Maybe that's not a fair comparison, but I feel like it is.

I'd guess in some ways, the recommendation to not bother with it is related more to his tune than it is which one is "better" though?

As far as the difference in parts, I would guess that the way air moves inside that air box has a very pronounced effect on how the bike runs in varying conditions. All those little holes in the 14+ probably provide a better distribution of air across the filter, less swirling, and result in a better running OEM solution. That single hole is likely capable of flowing much more air than the engine can use, even at top RPM, while the 14+ one probably can flow a little bit more. Also can't forget that there could be some ram air effect at speed too.
 

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part # 11065 CAP

I've noticed similar parts in the automotive and equipment world but mainly on trucks and tractors and believe they are there to help trap larger matter on the bottom of the housing as it falls off the filter when not running. Needed to be cleaned under too but cant find any thing about that in our manual.
 
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Scuba, you went with the nightmare, individual K and n filters TOO?

I did that to my kz 650. I paid 35.00 for the 4 individual filters. That was 12 hours of work , cost wise.

I had the airbox on, the next day, and was thrilled to finally get it back in, and only be out 35.00 and some time.

When we cleaned my mom's garage out, last year, I still had the 4 oiled up k and n filters, on a shelf.

Do you remember trying to make the bike idle with them ON? Or try to set the needle for decent midrange RESPONSE?

It still cracks me up when I see the silly bombbers go by and they are running those.

Advintage, your explanation makes sense....also sort-of explains why you would want to there, despite the new one having holes drilled in it.
 

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I changed out the plate with 1 hole to the 2014 model that has several holes and 2014 model filter, no flash and it seems to run better.
 

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Ivan made a carb kit for the ZRX 1100 / 1200 that was designed specifically around the pod filters and it worked fantastic. I had it it my 1200 and was plug and play.
 

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Chrispy, back then, it COULD be done. So, they say. In theory....Problem was, instead of Ivan, you had the guy behind the parts counter.

Also, when you did this, the inside carbs needed to be jetted differently than the outer. How were you supposed to figure that out, with nothing but plug chops?

And, to make a change, you had to remove all four carbs. You could get to the oitsides, but the insides were buried.

If you were at high altitude, you could,pretty well forget any sort of published help, too. Worst was when you got close..,a jet change would cost at least 20.00, 40.00 if you did the pilots, too, it was not long before you ran out of time, patience, and money and realized this was awful for anyone who did not dragrace.
 

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RC - yep - except I was dumb and bought a bike with them on there already. I got it pretty good, but it just wasn't the way it should be for its daily type of use.

I dunno, I just can't wait to ride, right now my bike and I are not in the same location and that's gonna be the case for probably another month :(
 
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