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A Black 2019 N1k
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Discussion Starter #1
I am using an Andriod based GPS unit which I have connected to the bike's OEM Heated Grips connector. This means that when I turn the ignition key off, the GPS automatically switches from 12v to internal battery power, and when I turn the ignition key back on, the GPS switches from the internal battery back to the 12V supply.

Well, it is supposed to do that, but it seems that when I hit the starter button, the ECU momentarially drops power to the Heated Grips circuit and this momentary power drop is "confusing" the GPS and it gets "stuck" in battery power mode.

The solution is to power down the GPS, remove it from the 12v cradle, start the GPS in battery mode, power off the GPS in battery mode, re-fit the GPS to the 12v cradle and then start the GPS in 12v mode.

To overcome this issue, I want to hard wire the GPS to the battery, and use a manual switch to turn power on/off, as needed.

The GPS has an in-line transformed (12v in, 5v 1.5A out )and I have a waterproof SPDT mini switch rated at 5A @ 12v. The switch will be mounted on the dashboard and will be exposed to rain water.

Option #1 has the switch controlling power to the in-line transformer, while #2 has the switch control the power to the GPS.

My preference is option #1, but I am open to expert advice . . . .

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'20 Kawasaki 1000SX, '18 KTM Super Duke R, '16 Yamaha FJR1300ES
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I would go with option #1 to de-energize the primary side of the transformer when not in use.
 

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2019 Ninja 1000
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I'm not an electrical guru by any means. So, this may be the wrong way about it. But, I know that the lights only go on when the bike is actually running. You could tap into the low beam wire directly and that way it won't go through that momentary loss of power.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would go with option #1 to de-energize the primary side of the transformer when not in use.
Thanks for the advice. I was also concerned about having the transformed energized all the time.

I'm not an electrical guru by any means. So, this may be the wrong way about it. But, I know that the lights only go on when the bike is actually running. You could tap into the low beam wire directly and that way it won't go through that momentary loss of power.
This would probably be doable, but I hate cutting into the stock wiring harness, and who knows how the ECU might re-act. I have already fitted an auxiliary multi-fuse block wired directly to the battery. I can just run another wire from there, and keep the stock wiring unmolested.
 

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Your circuit #1 would be preferable and sounds like you already have it covered.

BTW, the starter relay is what turns off power to the auxiliary circuits when you hit the starter button.

The low beam light is a good place to get power and where my own relay block is powered from. That way if you turn the key on the heated gear, etc. isn't drawing juice until the engine is running.
 
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My 2014 has 1 set of bullet connectors for powered accessories. I use it to power an in-dash USB charger that I installed. When I added the Oxford heated grips I setup a relay off the battery. I wired the relay to the tail light. Works the same as Kenors described.
 

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'20 Kawasaki 1000SX, '18 KTM Super Duke R, '16 Yamaha FJR1300ES
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If you're going to add a lot of powered accessories, I would suggest something like a FuzeBlock FZ-1. It lets you make each of its 6 fused connections either switched from the ignition or hot all the time with a built in relay that has a trigger wire for the coil that you can connect to any switched source on the bike, like the tail light (easy to do with something like a Posi-Tap).
 

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Those are nice. Thought about using one. The cost was a little expensive for the mod, in my opinion. It requires tapping into switch power source as HouTex stated. For about $20 you can set up a relay with terminal blocks for easy addition of powered accessories.
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Those are nice. Thought about using one. The cost was a little expensive for the mod, in my opinion. It requires tapping into switch power source as HouTex stated. For about $20 you can set up a relay with terminal blocks for easy addition of powered accessories. View attachment 29345 View attachment 29345 View attachment 29346 View attachment 29346 View attachment 29347 View attachment 29347
The nice thing about the FuzeBlock is that each circuit is individually fused and you can decide which ones you want switched and which ones you don't (for instance, I have one circuit feeding a Powerlet power outlet that I use for a charging port for my Battery Tender and that needs to be hot all the time--some people like their GPS to stay powered after turning off the ignition so it doesn't go to battery back up mode). Also easy to change from one to the other by just relocating the fuse to a different position. Of course, you could always just install in line fuses for each branch, but you definitely need appropriate fusing for each. I feed the FuzeBlock off the battery with a 30A in line fuse and #10 wire so I have plenty of power available, especially for my heated gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My solution was not quiet up to the sophistication of the FuzeBlock. I just used a 4 position "dumb" fuse block. I ran a 25A wire directly from the battery and daisy-chained it to each fuse position. It has a waterproof clear cover over the fuses, although this is not needed as it is under the seat.

I then ran 10A wire from the fuse to the various accessories, and used individual fuses appropriate for the accessory.

The maximum current was 12A (horn + heated grips + battery monitor), but will be now 14A when I wire in the GPS.

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That looks good. I wish I had a picture of the sv650 I bought. The previous owner thought he had your skill, and had to be color blind. No cameras, back then, but its forever burned into my memory. I was happy because it saved me 200 from his asking price. We popped the seat off, I saw his work and said, "Sorry, thank you for your time" and walked away. He dropped the price.

I can do the work, but I dont have that touch to make everything look good....but, I know that, so I avoid it. Some dont.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's why I do not like splicing into the stock wiring harness. Using a separate circuit, I can remove everything prior a sale.

By the way, did you notice my addaption of your "quick removal" seat mod ??
 

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I didnt, but that is what I was hoping to achieve when I did mine. I didnt find any pegs that were suitable. You must have made yours? I tried to turn the bolt into my peg. It worked, but not what i wanted, at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I took some 6mm bolts, and cut the heads off. Then I drilled a hole in one end for a R pin and just screwed the headless bolt into the frame to the required depth. I used some medium strength Locktite to hold it in position. (that way I can always remove them if needs be).
 

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<snip>
I feed the FuzeBlock off the battery with a 30A in line fuse and #10 wire so I have plenty of power available, especially for my heated gear.
Just remember no matter how big a wire you use or how big a fuse you only have about 10A to play with on our Ninja's. While it's true you can momentarily draw more off the battery, it'll be dead in short order if you draw more.
With the Ninja providing 2 switched aux circuits (if you count the heated grip circuit) I found I no longer have a need for a switch block. The only other circuits are for charging/running the air pump and my heated gear. Both are just lines with in-line fuses with the heated gear circuit going through a relay.
 

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Just remember no matter how big a wire you use or how big a fuse you only have about 10A to play with on our Ninja's. While it's true you can momentarily draw more off the battery, it'll be dead in short order if you draw more.
With the Ninja providing 2 switched aux circuits (if you count the heated grip circuit) I found I no longer have a need for a switch block. The only other circuits are for charging/running the air pump and my heated gear. Both are just lines with in-line fuses with the heated gear circuit going through a relay.
Actually, the FuzeBlock set up I described is on my FJR for a charging port, GPS, radar detector, and heated gear with 2 extra circuits for future--it has 325 watts, or 27 amps, of excess alternator capacity for accessories. On the 1000SX, so far all I have is a charging port and a radar detector wired directly off the battery with in line fuses in each so they are both hot all the time. I will also use the charging port Powerlet outlet to plug in my Gerbing heated liner controller and an air compressor (when needed). The liner pulls about 6.5 amps and the radar detector next to nothing, so hopefully I'll be okay with the 10 amps of excess capacity--that sure is low for a sport touring bike. I will be adding the accessory heated grips--I hope there is enough capacity for all of that.
 

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Boy, do I feel stupid. I bought a GPS, Garmin 395 LM, that I needed to mount and need to do a permanent job of wiring my radar detector, and will be installing a panel mount Heat controller.

I have two big Tupperware containers that have miscellaneous motorcycle stuff in them that I was going though yesterday to decide on mounting options for the GPS. What do I come across....a Fuzeblock! HouTex, what bike did I have that on? I switched to a PDM60 when I got my BMW 1600 and then threw the FuzeBlock in my “junk” box. The PDM is on the FJR now, and yesterday I installed the Fuzeblock on the 1000SX. Wired the GPS and radar detector. I was even able to mount it under the rider seat right behind the battery. Pics to follow when I get a chance.
 

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Boy, do I feel stupid. I bought a GPS, Garmin 395 LM, that I needed to mount and need to do a permanent job of wiring my radar detector, and will be installing a panel mount Heat controller.

I have two big Tupperware containers that have miscellaneous motorcycle stuff in them that I was going though yesterday to decide on mounting options for the GPS. What do I come across....a Fuzeblock! HouTex, what bike did I have that on? I switched to a PDM60 when I got my BMW 1600 and then threw the FuzeBlock in my “junk” box. The PDM is on the FJR now, and yesterday I installed the Fuzeblock on the 1000SX. Wired the GPS and radar detector. I was even able to mount it under the rider seat right behind the battery. Pics to follow when I get a chance.
We both got those for our '10 Concours 14's. I moved mine to the '13 FJR and then to the '16 FJR. Is there room to fit the Gerbings controller box under the seat of the 1000SX as well? That's what I've done on the FJR.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just remember no matter how big a wire you use or how big a fuse you only have about 10A to play with on our Ninja's. While it's true you can momentarily draw more off the battery, it'll be dead in short order if you draw more.
Why do you say there is only 10A available ??

The circuit for the OEM Heated Grips is fused at 15A & the Accessories circuit is fused at 7.5A.

Does that not suggest that the bike is designed for a maximum of 22.5A continuous current draw for accessories ??
 
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