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Advice Needed from Electrical Gurus

9K views 67 replies 10 participants last post by  Volfy 
#1 ·
I am using an Andriod based GPS unit which I have connected to the bike's OEM Heated Grips connector. This means that when I turn the ignition key off, the GPS automatically switches from 12v to internal battery power, and when I turn the ignition key back on, the GPS switches from the internal battery back to the 12V supply.

Well, it is supposed to do that, but it seems that when I hit the starter button, the ECU momentarially drops power to the Heated Grips circuit and this momentary power drop is "confusing" the GPS and it gets "stuck" in battery power mode.

The solution is to power down the GPS, remove it from the 12v cradle, start the GPS in battery mode, power off the GPS in battery mode, re-fit the GPS to the 12v cradle and then start the GPS in 12v mode.

To overcome this issue, I want to hard wire the GPS to the battery, and use a manual switch to turn power on/off, as needed.

The GPS has an in-line transformed (12v in, 5v 1.5A out )and I have a waterproof SPDT mini switch rated at 5A @ 12v. The switch will be mounted on the dashboard and will be exposed to rain water.

Option #1 has the switch controlling power to the in-line transformer, while #2 has the switch control the power to the GPS.

My preference is option #1, but I am open to expert advice . . . .

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#4 ·
Thanks for the advice. I was also concerned about having the transformed energized all the time.

I'm not an electrical guru by any means. So, this may be the wrong way about it. But, I know that the lights only go on when the bike is actually running. You could tap into the low beam wire directly and that way it won't go through that momentary loss of power.
This would probably be doable, but I hate cutting into the stock wiring harness, and who knows how the ECU might re-act. I have already fitted an auxiliary multi-fuse block wired directly to the battery. I can just run another wire from there, and keep the stock wiring unmolested.
 
#5 ·
Your circuit #1 would be preferable and sounds like you already have it covered.

BTW, the starter relay is what turns off power to the auxiliary circuits when you hit the starter button.

The low beam light is a good place to get power and where my own relay block is powered from. That way if you turn the key on the heated gear, etc. isn't drawing juice until the engine is running.
 
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#6 ·
My 2014 has 1 set of bullet connectors for powered accessories. I use it to power an in-dash USB charger that I installed. When I added the Oxford heated grips I setup a relay off the battery. I wired the relay to the tail light. Works the same as Kenors described.
 
#7 ·
If you're going to add a lot of powered accessories, I would suggest something like a FuzeBlock FZ-1. It lets you make each of its 6 fused connections either switched from the ignition or hot all the time with a built in relay that has a trigger wire for the coil that you can connect to any switched source on the bike, like the tail light (easy to do with something like a Posi-Tap).
 
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#9 ·
Those are nice. Thought about using one. The cost was a little expensive for the mod, in my opinion. It requires tapping into switch power source as HouTex stated. For about $20 you can set up a relay with terminal blocks for easy addition of powered accessories.
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Red Wire Electrical wiring Cable Electronics
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Wire Cable Technology Electronic device Electronics accessory
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#10 ·
The nice thing about the FuzeBlock is that each circuit is individually fused and you can decide which ones you want switched and which ones you don't (for instance, I have one circuit feeding a Powerlet power outlet that I use for a charging port for my Battery Tender and that needs to be hot all the time--some people like their GPS to stay powered after turning off the ignition so it doesn't go to battery back up mode). Also easy to change from one to the other by just relocating the fuse to a different position. Of course, you could always just install in line fuses for each branch, but you definitely need appropriate fusing for each. I feed the FuzeBlock off the battery with a 30A in line fuse and #10 wire so I have plenty of power available, especially for my heated gear.
 
#11 ·
My solution was not quiet up to the sophistication of the FuzeBlock. I just used a 4 position "dumb" fuse block. I ran a 25A wire directly from the battery and daisy-chained it to each fuse position. It has a waterproof clear cover over the fuses, although this is not needed as it is under the seat.

I then ran 10A wire from the fuse to the various accessories, and used individual fuses appropriate for the accessory.

The maximum current was 12A (horn + heated grips + battery monitor), but will be now 14A when I wire in the GPS.

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#12 ·
That looks good. I wish I had a picture of the sv650 I bought. The previous owner thought he had your skill, and had to be color blind. No cameras, back then, but its forever burned into my memory. I was happy because it saved me 200 from his asking price. We popped the seat off, I saw his work and said, "Sorry, thank you for your time" and walked away. He dropped the price.

I can do the work, but I dont have that touch to make everything look good....but, I know that, so I avoid it. Some dont.
 
#14 ·
I didnt, but that is what I was hoping to achieve when I did mine. I didnt find any pegs that were suitable. You must have made yours? I tried to turn the bolt into my peg. It worked, but not what i wanted, at all.
 
#18 ·
Boy, do I feel stupid. I bought a GPS, Garmin 395 LM, that I needed to mount and need to do a permanent job of wiring my radar detector, and will be installing a panel mount Heat controller.

I have two big Tupperware containers that have miscellaneous motorcycle stuff in them that I was going though yesterday to decide on mounting options for the GPS. What do I come across....a Fuzeblock! HouTex, what bike did I have that on? I switched to a PDM60 when I got my BMW 1600 and then threw the FuzeBlock in my “junk” box. The PDM is on the FJR now, and yesterday I installed the Fuzeblock on the 1000SX. Wired the GPS and radar detector. I was even able to mount it under the rider seat right behind the battery. Pics to follow when I get a chance.
 
#19 ·
We both got those for our '10 Concours 14's. I moved mine to the '13 FJR and then to the '16 FJR. Is there room to fit the Gerbings controller box under the seat of the 1000SX as well? That's what I've done on the FJR.
 
#23 ·
If the OEM Heated Grips draw 3A (similar to Oxford), why would Kawasaki fit a 15A fuse ?? Why not a 10A fuse or even 7.5A like the Accessory circuit ?

Looking at the electrical diagram there does not appear to be anthing else on the Heated Grips circuit.
 
#24 ·
Why Kawasaki chose to fuse the grip heater circuit at 15A is a mystery to me. There's nothing else on the circuit. Maybe they were assuming users would find other uses for that circuit like I did?
 
#25 ·
That is what confuses me.

If Kawasaki fused the Heated Grip circuit at 15A, with the expectation that Owners may want to use that circuit for other reasons, then logically, it must be able to supply up to 15A. Likewise, the Accessories circuit at 7.5A.

So is it not reasonable to assume that Kawasaki designed the electric system to be able to provide a maximum of 22.5A (15+7.5) for "add on" accessories ??
 
#26 ·
I saw an article, years ago, that talked about the alternator output on the "new" Ninja 1000. The figure they gave was about 335w.....maybe 336, to be exact.

The estimate they gave, for an efi bike, was that it needed 285w just to keep itself alive. That only left @ 50w to play with when you add accessories. That was in 2011. The alternator could have been upgraded, since then, but the regulator is the same as it's always been.
 
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#27 ·
I tried to find that article. I couldn't remember the numbers but that sounds right. I believe that number came from "everything on" so if you stick to low beam only you get another 55W to play with, so around 100W. I know on my '11 and '14 with the heated gear on "Hi", flipping the high beam on cause the V to drop to near 12V. e.g. it was drawing off the battery. That happened even at speed. At idle, the voltage dropped to below 12V so the battery was draining rapidly.
Weight and cost are both drivers towards the absolute minimum charging solution you can get away with on a bike. Unlike my old truck which has a 130A alternator.

A final thought on why the 15A and 7.5A fuses on the Kawasaki provided switched circuits: On the '11 and '14 the Aux provided circuit was fused at 2A. Why? That circuit had no problems supporting a 5A draw (grip heaters, gps, radar detector) simply by upping the fuse rating. Again, this was based on measurements, not specs. My question then was "Why did they put such a small fuse in that circuit?"

I haven't really done any stress tests on the '18 yet but I'm hoping the LED headlights draw a lot less power than the standard bulbs did. I'd like to be able to run all my heated gear and still run the high beams. I'll report back when I do.
 
#30 ·
Murph, that spec was from Rider magazine, sometime in late 2010, or early 2011. There was also another touring magazine that confirmed this number, so we just went with it.


 
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#50 ·
Murph, that spec was from Rider magazine, sometime in late 2010, or early 2011. There was also another touring magazine that confirmed this number, so we just went with it.
Thanks for the link to the Rider Magazine site. I did a bit of digging around in their previous bike reviews and found the following information there. As the engines are basically the same in both bikes, there may be an "upgrade" path after all.

2017 Ninja 1000SX Electrical Sytsem
Ignition: TCBI w/ digital advance
Charging Output: 336 watts @ 5,000 rpm
Battery: 12V 8AH

2019 Versey Electrical System
Ignition: TCBI w/ digital advance
Charging Output: 407 watts max.
Battery: 12V 8.2AH
 
#32 ·
So the sum of all these comments is that the N1K's electrical system is "borderline" with 10A being the upper limit for accessories.

Add that problem to the (potential) problems associated with the rear tyre size, and the inability to change front sprocket size, and the inability to change the handle bars, and the problem with the "buzzy" engine vibrations and the the N1K is starting to look "marginal" as a Touring bike. (n) (n) (n)
 
#37 ·
The bike is what it is. In 1976 I rode a 1975 Honda 750F 4,000 miles in two weeks. I had two weeks worth of clothes including cold weather clothes for the Rocky Mountains, a pup tent and sleeping bag strapped to the bike.

Is the N1K a true sport touring bike....no. Like HouTex, I have an FJR for that. For a 1,000 mile, three day trip to the Hill Country it is perfect. I have zero problem doing 400 mile days on the bike. And frankly, if I were 40 years younger I still would ride the N1K on a long trip. I’m actually sure I could today anyway with no issues, but I’m fortunate enough to be able to afford the right tool for the job.
 
#39 ·
You guys that own other touring bikes...doesnt something disappear once you have all these things we might complain about? My c14 is faster, it doesnt vibrate, ample wind protection. Once Ivan flashed it, the engine is magical. On paper, it solves every issue that we complain about. In real life, it does, technically, but it just isnt the same as rising a small, compact, light motorcycle. If I had to ride from Salt Lace, to Houston, it would be the choice. But from salt lake to somewhere 10 Mile's away, probably not.
 
#40 ·
rc, I see your point, but having put 33,000 miles on a Concours myself, and have also owned a ST1300, two FJRs and two 1600GTs, I know what they cannot do that the 1000SX does. They cannot handle as well, and cannot be modded to weigh 160lbs or more less.

I still love the FJR and others, but they are just not as much fun to ride.
 
#42 ·
I had a look at the Kawasaki USA website and I think they have nailed it with their advertising description of the N1K :

The sport appeal of Kawasaki Ninja® motorcycles goes well beyond the racetrack with the remarkably versatile Ninja® 1000SX sportbike. Enjoy pure sporting thrill with superior power, two-up touring capability and advanced rider support electronics. A force to be reckoned with on the track and a machine built for weekend trips.
 
#43 ·
I had a look at the Kawasaki USA website and I think they have nailed it with their advertising description of the N1K :

The sport appeal of Kawasaki Ninja® motorcycles goes well beyond the racetrack with the remarkably versatile Ninja® 1000SX sportbike. Enjoy pure sporting thrill with superior power, two-up touring capability and advanced rider support electronics. A force to be reckoned with on the track and a machine built for weekend trips.
There you go--officially confirmed by Kawasaki!
 
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#47 ·
True. I just chose the bike I'm happiest on the vast majority of the time. We all have our preferences and since I can't have a 450# pre-VTEC VFR1000 with luggage...And since I'm only 40 miles from the mountains...
 
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#48 ·
I would love to be 40 miles from the mountains. It’s been 40 years since I lived anywhere with good roads nearby. But we take what we have and make the most of it. At least in Houston we can ride year around, although the summers are pretty brutal.

The best part of living in Houston is having HouTex to ride with. As I stated other times, he and I met over 15 years ago and have virtually identical riding styles and of when and where we like to stop. Our standards for riding companions is quite high!
 
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