Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As required, I adjust my chain too about 1 inch of play along what i see as the tight area of the chain every 300-500 miles. My question is, can the rear wheel be raised on a stand and then spin the wheel to find the tight area; then lower the wheel to the deck resting the bike on the side stand and use the SAME location found to be tight while lifted then and make the adjustment? Thx.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Seems to me that the tight spot found while the wheel is lifted is the one you want to use for your adjustment. How would you find a tight spot while the bike is on it's side stand with the tire on the ground?

I'm about to adjust my chain in the near future and that's how I plan to do it.

Are you using a chain alignment tool when done or relying on the bikes hash marks at the rear axle to make sure everything is aligned properly? Still not sure if I'm gonna buy an alignment tool or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
My question would be...why bother to put the bike down on the side stand to adjust the chain? Just adjust it while it's on the rear stand. The only reason the manual says do it on the side stand is because Kawasaki, in a gross oversight, forgot to include a center stand on this bike.
Also, I think you're spending way too much time playing with your chain. Modern chains don't require that kind of attention. If you're chain needs adjustment every 300-500 miles it's time to get a new one. I don't even lube my chain that often and only clean it once or twice a year. This is for normal use. Sandstorms, floodwaters and sea spray cause me to pay more attention to the chain.
I also just use the hash marks Kawasaki provides for alignment. IF I ever had a problem with shortened chain lifespan or strange wear marks on sprockets or chain links I'd check the alignment further but as long as I'm getting 25k-30k miles out of a chain, I have other things to worry about.
My experience with modern chains is after mounting and adjusting they get loose enough to adjust after a few hundred miles. Then they're good (adjustment wise) for the next 20k+ miles. Then they'll need an adjustment. 1k miles later they'll be loose again. A few hundred miles later they'll be loose again. Time for a new one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,268 Posts
Kenors is 100% correct about the chain. If you keep setting it to the tight position, you will constantly have to mess with it. If its stretching from 35 to 45 or 50mm, on a regular basis, its worn out. Leave it at the maximum looseness position. 35mm is better than 1 inch. Set it at 35mm, at the tightest spot, then forget about it.

People worry about it jumping or skipping. That really cant happen if it's in good shape and 35mm of play. Everything is pulling in a straight line. If you have a rock land on the chain, that's an issue no matter what, but with 35mm of slack, you'll never have a problem. My original chain gets adjusted when I change a tire, and that's it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Exactly what they have already said.
Time for a new chain if it actually is needing adjusting like that. Check it as much as you like, but If it gets to the stage that it is really loose, you should hear or feel it anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Exactly what they have already said.
Time for a new chain if it actually is needing adjusting like that. Check it as much as you like, but If it gets to the stage that it is really loose, you should hear or feel it anyway.

ITS GOOD TO GET (EVERYONES) OPINIONS, [I REALIZE NOT ALL OPINIONS YET]. I WAS JUST TRYING TO FIND OUT IF THE PROCESS OF CHECKING measurements WHEN THE WHEEL IS UP DIFFERS ( from When the wheel is down). I will adjust only when the chain is loose more than the normal distance.

Kenors,, you ride alot more than me at the present. Your runs are probably more chain friendly. I tend to strech the chain with hard runs. Who knows, maybe not as much, or more than whoever. Keep it safe...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Seems to me that the tight spot found while the wheel is lifted is the one you want to use for your adjustment. How would you find a tight spot while the bike is on it's side stand with the tire on the ground?

I'm about to adjust my chain in the near future and that's how I plan to do it.

Are you using a chain alignment tool when done or relying on the bikes hash marks at the rear axle to make sure everything is aligned properly? Still not sure if I'm gonna buy an alignment tool or not.
Chowa, good to talk. I adjust when the tension tells me too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,268 Posts
Mr sand, the ideal was to set tension would be to strap something to the seat and crank it down until the swingarm was level. At that point, the sprockets would be as far apart as possible. If you had some slack, at that point, you would be good. At that point, you would not need 25-30mm. If it were at the level point, you might need 5mm since the chain is not going to get tighter than it is right there.

The factory spec is going to account for that. I'm not sure what a hard run means as oposed to an easy run. When a chain gets loose, it's because of wear in its pivot points. Stretching the side plates really doesnt happen.

For that reason, just think about it. There isnt much wear that's acceptible before the chain snaps due to worn pivot points.

Offroad, and in mud, you could ruin a chain and sprocket in one day. Especially on a powerful bike. Onroad, I would still say a 300 mie chain adjustment is excessive unless you were drag racing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
One inch is too tight in my opinion and would be the cause of it needing adjustment more often. A little loose is way better than a little tight. I’ve learned this the hard way.

And I am in full agreement with Kenors
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
One inch is too tight in my opinion and would be the cause of it needing adjustment more often. A little loose is way better than a little tight. I’ve learned this the hard way.

And I am in full agreement with Kenors
Thanks for advice guys,,,,,,,,RC what i ment by hard run is full hard throttle speed runs, maybe up to 120mph
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,268 Posts
Mr sand, that's no big deal. If it were,my chain and I would be in trouble. Try 35-40mm and see if the adjustment stabilizes .
That's pretty much how i stumbled into the idea, years ago. I noticed that when the chain hit the maximum slack point, it tended to stay there. If I tried to keep it at the minimum level, I needed to screw with it constantly.

I'm going to buy one of these chains when BMW's exclusive thing runs out..I think BMW wants 350 for it. Probably 200-225 once everyone else has one.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Thanks for advice guys,,,,,,,,RC what i ment by hard run is full hard throttle speed runs, maybe up to 120mph
I‘m at an age that I should be embarrassed and locked up for how fast I run my bikes, Even the 1199 Panigale I just traded and now my CBR1000rr that I bought eight weeks ago and already have 3500 miles on seldom need a chain adjustment. I run them flat out from a first or second gear roll well into the triple digits every time ride them. The new chains can take a lot.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top