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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm only 5'10," w/a 30" inseam but at 58+, my knees and hips get uncomfortable on longer rides and w/me, it's all about comfort when I ride now.

So last week I ordered the Moto Werks set up, blocks and brake lever nut, to give me a skosh more leg, hip & knee room. I swear the things arrived about 10m after I ordered them. All parts look rock solid & appear to be some nice quality stuff.

Now, I don't not have a spatially-oriented mind; it's one of the reasons I often farm out mechanical work but I had the day free and decided to give this a go. I printed up the directions off the Moto Werks site, only to discover that the directions for the N1K were intended for the 650 model Kawis. That was confusing at first until I figured it out. Moto Werks needs to change that link. Luckily, there was another link for the Z1000; I figured that would be close enough, and it was.

Overall, even w/my skill package & tool set, I was able to figure it out. I got both pegs and the brake lever nut done in under 2 hours. Some of the directions were a tad confusing tho. For example, when installing the right side peg, they tell you to use the left lowering block. Huh? Ok, I figured they knew better than me but it's an obvious typo. They really need to work on the instruction sheets and pictures.

Once I got it figured out, the actual install wasn't bad and I didn't lose much blood in the process. Probably the worst part was trying to loosen the nut holding the little cage around the rod assembly. Here's a hint- hit it w/a shot of WD40 first. After struggling w/that thing for 15m, the WD40 freed it up in less than 3m. Another ***** was trying to remove the cotter pin off the backside of the brake adjustment pin. Crikey, could Kawi have squeezed it into a smaller place?

Another small challenge was setting the brake pedal height w/the new brake adjustment pin. I was hoping to drop the pedal low but that set off the brake switch, so it took a bit of trial and error, as well as loosening the part of the lower fairing that attaches down there, to get it to set as low as possible w/out triggering the switch.

Outside of those minor issues and the instructions snafu, it all went well and, ta-da, near-instant additional legroom. Yeah, it's only an incremental amount but I took the bike for a short ride and I could tell the difference. Heck, I'll take anything to open up the riding position a bit.

If I can believe the number of cycle-ergo.com web page, between all the comfort mods I've done, my bike now sits more open than the FJR1300 I've been eyeing, but still not as open as the Versys 1000, altho it's dang close.
Lee
 

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Love my Motowerks lowered pegs. I'd have probably never had them except I picked up a used VFR with them on it. Didn't seem like a lot of difference but after riding that bike, getting back on the identical VFR I was selling felt cramped. As did the Ninja until I picked up the lowering blocks. Makes all the difference to my older knees.


And you're right, the hardest part was resetting the darn brake light/lever.
 

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I'm only 5'10," w/a 30" inseam but at 58+, my knees and hips get uncomfortable on longer rides and w/me, it's all about comfort when I ride now.

So last week I ordered the Moto Werks set up, blocks and brake lever nut, to give me a skosh more leg, hip & knee room. I swear the things arrived about 10m after I ordered them. All parts look rock solid & appear to be some nice quality stuff.

Now, I don't not have a spatially-oriented mind; it's one of the reasons I often farm out mechanical work but I had the day free and decided to give this a go. I printed up the directions off the Moto Werks site, only to discover that the directions for the N1K were intended for the 650 model Kawis. That was confusing at first until I figured it out. Moto Werks needs to change that link. Luckily, there was another link for the Z1000; I figured that would be close enough, and it was.

Overall, even w/my skill package & tool set, I was able to figure it out. I got both pegs and the brake lever nut done in under 2 hours. Some of the directions were a tad confusing tho. For example, when installing the right side peg, they tell you to use the left lowering block. Huh? Ok, I figured they knew better than me but it's an obvious typo. They really need to work on the instruction sheets and pictures.

Once I got it figured out, the actual install wasn't bad and I didn't lose much blood in the process. Probably the worst part was trying to loosen the nut holding the little cage around the rod assembly. Here's a hint- hit it w/a shot of WD40 first. After struggling w/that thing for 15m, the WD40 freed it up in less than 3m. Another ***** was trying to remove the cotter pin off the backside of the brake adjustment pin. Crikey, could Kawi have squeezed it into a smaller place?

Another small challenge was setting the brake pedal height w/the new brake adjustment pin. I was hoping to drop the pedal low but that set off the brake switch, so it took a bit of trial and error, as well as loosening the part of the lower fairing that attaches down there, to get it to set as low as possible w/out triggering the switch.

Outside of those minor issues and the instructions snafu, it all went well and, ta-da, near-instant additional legroom. Yeah, it's only an incremental amount but I took the bike for a short ride and I could tell the difference. Heck, I'll take anything to open up the riding position a bit.

If I can believe the number of cycle-ergo.com web page, between all the comfort mods I've done, my bike now sits more open than the FJR1300 I've been eyeing, but still not as open as the Versys 1000, altho it's dang close.
Lee
Lee,

I went through the same process a couple of years ago when I did mine. I also put peg lowerers on my last bike, an '08 Versys 650. My 63 year old hip joints and knee joints really appreciate it.

I put Murph's bar risers on last Fall. Very comfy, but needs more testing, once the snow melts here.

Dave
 

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You knwo that switch is adjustable. You dont even need tools to adjust it. I know this video is not of the correct bike but you are used to that! LOL

Plastic into plastic and it just twists. Like this:
Yep, and with it adjusted all the way to the bottom of it's range it was still too short. Ended up mangling the spring to make it activate the brake light right.
But I think we're talking about the saddle and locknut to adjust the brake lever height. PITA to adjust and, again, at the end of it's range, still left the brake pedal too high. Motowerks sells a replacement part that works better but I still ended up buying a thinner nut to get the adjustment to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lee,

I went through the same process a couple of years ago when I did mine. I also put peg lowerers on my last bike, an '08 Versys 650. My 63 year old hip joints and knee joints really appreciate it.

I put Murph's bar risers on last Fall. Very comfy, but needs more testing, once the snow melts here.

Dave
Murph's was one of the first mods I did. Vast imrpovement for me. I think I got some of the original ones where there is a little pin that locks the angle in place. I would like the abilitity to rotate the grip a bit more but it's not that big an issue for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Motowerks sells a replacement part that works better but I still ended up buying a thinner nut to get the adjustment to work.
I installed one the Motowerks brake adjustment pins and it does provide a bit more room, I'd guess 1/2" but even w/that, I'd still like to drop the brake pedal down another 1/2" or more so my foot isn't riding on or near the pedal.
 

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Congrats on a successful install. I'm sure you checked this already but just in case, test out the rear brake lamp switch to ensure it comes on when the pedal is pressed lightly and turns off when released. If it does not, you need to adjust the switch connected to the rear brake pedal.

Enjoy the cozy ride!

W-
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Congrats on a successful install. I'm sure you checked this already but just in case, test out the rear brake lamp switch to ensure it comes on when the pedal is pressed lightly and turns off when released. If it does not, you need to adjust the switch connected to the rear brake pedal.

Enjoy the cozy ride!

W-
Yup, already done but thanks for the tip!
Lee
 

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Couple of questions
Ordered these blocks, haven't installed them yet,,.
1) Any concerns with the pegs hitting now that they are lower (I haven't had an issue previously)
2) I didn't get the brake light bolt, thought I read it wasn't necessary, will I need it?
3) They have a disclaimer on the weight capacity,,. Can you get away with standing on the peg to mount the bike?
I weigh 195LBs,,.
"The lowering foot pegs blocks are quite stout, so they can take up to 185 Lb load each; however, standing with your full body weight on one foot peg is not recommended. All installation hardware is included."
 

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Couple of questions
Ordered these blocks, haven't installed them yet,,.
1) Any concerns with the pegs hitting now that they are lower (I haven't had an issue previously)
2) I didn't get the brake light bolt, thought I read it wasn't necessary, will I need it?
3) They have a disclaimer on the weight capacity,,. Can you get away with standing on the peg to mount the bike?
I weigh 195LBs,,.
"The lowering foot pegs blocks are quite stout, so they can take up to 185 Lb load each; however, standing with your full body weight on one foot peg is not recommended. All installation hardware is included."
I lowered my foot pegs 2 years ago. I've not dragged a peg on the pavement yet. I even did an advanced riding class at the DCTC track in Minnesota [ https://www.ridezars.com/ ] and leaned my N1K to the edge of the tires, and did not scrape a peg.

I recall buying the brake light bolt and installing it (I think). I needed it to keep the brake pedal the same distance down from the footpeg. I wanted to keep the "angle" of my right foot in a comfortable place, and still be able to use the rear brake without really thinking about it. I recall that the brake bolt was relatively inexpensive, so you may want to buy it, in case you need it.

The weight capacity statement is to cover the manufacturer in case of liabilities. I'm not worried about the strength of my MotoWerk peg lowerers.
We are riding liter bikes. Liter bikes are not generally ridden by those who wish to live a risk free life. ;o)
BTW, according to the experts at Motorcycle Consumer News (US), on average, riding a motorcycle is 19 times more dangerous than driving a car. :eek:
 

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I've had my Moto Werks Lowering Pegs, and Brake Clevis for a while now. The Extra Clevis part is so you can lower your brake pedal the same distance as you are lowering your pegs. Other wise there is not enough adjustment range to lower the brake pedal to the point of not having to lift your foot to reach it. I also ground the end of the plunger that comes out of the rear master cylinder to get just a little more 'down' on my brake lever. I've got it right were I like it.

I did replace the huge hex bolt that looks like they came straight from the hardware store with stainless steal cap heads. I also used the soft side of Velcro on the top and side where my boot would touch it. It looks much better blacked out.

I liked the improvement so much I decided to treat myself to a new pair of Apex 4" riser clip ons to make the handle bars much more comfortable. I've got 44,000 miles on my Ninja 1000 in the last four years and I love this bike more and more...
 

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Like Your DIY Videos

Congrats on a successful install. I'm sure you checked this already but just in case, test out the rear brake lamp switch to ensure it comes on when the pedal is pressed lightly and turns off when released. If it does not, you need to adjust the switch connected to the rear brake pedal.

Enjoy the cozy ride!

I Like your DIY videos along with Jonathan Long's. Keep up the great Work!!




Bc2
 

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Was it difficult to install the brake nut? Ive had it for a year but I have not installed it yet because i have no idea how to. Lol
 

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It's a bit of a PITA. If you look at the pic, the saddle is pinned to the brake lever. That pin has a cotter pin holding it in place on the inside. Remove that, remove the pin.
Normally there is a nut above and below the saddle. Loosen them and spin the saddle off the shaft of the brake cylinder. The pic is an "after" pic. I couldn't get the brake lever low enough with a nut on top so I removed it and replaced it with a washer. Then spin the saddle back up with just the inside nut (shown). If you have the MotoWerks nut, same thing except the saddle itself is threaded, spin it up the shaft of the brake cylinder. Adjust to taste, put the pin back in, put the cotter pin back in and you're done.
Now for the brake light switch adjustment. As mentioned, my lever is beyond the range of the brake light switch assembly. I had to cobble up the spring to make it long enough to keep the brake light happy.
 

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Was able to get out for a couple hours this morning. I can’t believe what a difference an inch makes. 101 percentage of satisfaction. Thank you speedy! (Motowerk)
28892
 
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