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What's involved in the 500 mile service ? Can a guy do this himself, or does the dealer have to do it. The sales guy said it was a glorified oil change, but they'll still charge 2 or 3 hundred for it.
 

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Other than the oil and filter change, the first service is just check fluids, check nuts and bolts, etc. Pretty easy to change the oil. Didn't even have to burp the filter. (I don't think the user's manual mentions burping the filter, but the Service Manual makes it a regular step in the oil change procedure.)
 

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I did my own 1st service and was advised to check and re-tighten the exhaust header bolts/nuts. Well sure enough these bolts did need to be tighten as they were somewhat loose so... change your oil, look at all the fluids and tighten the header nuts. Also check/tighten all bolts to be sure none have been loosened or not tight to begin with (as I did but all others were fine).

Then you have done all they would do and more (not sure they all tighten the header...)
 

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I did my own 1st service and was advised to check and re-tighten the exhaust header bolts/nuts. Well sure enough these bolts did need to be tighten as they were somewhat loose so... change your oil, look at all the fluids and tighten the header nuts. Also check/tighten all bolts to be sure none have been loosened or not tight to begin with (as I did but all others were fine).

Then you have done all they would do and more (not sure they all tighten the header...)
+1 Check the bolts. Oil changes are really easy on this bike.
 

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Airman, you need to get your dealership to justify the charges, I've had my '13 N1K since new, had the 500 mile service done by the dealer and an annual oil change and both (if memory serves) was only about $80-$90. I do try to do as much as I can when it comes to routine work, but desposing of used engine oil in Cali isn't an easy thing to achieve!
 

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Oh, and I've not had the oil light issue mentioned on here and in a different thread either.
When you change your oil, the oil pump sometimes doesn't get enough oil into it when the engine is filled back up. Thus the oil pump just spins in a pocket of air when you start it up & it doesn't pump any oil. This is called "Cavitation". Get rid of the air and the light should go out. Aka as burping your bike. Open up the oil filler cap. Turn the oil filter to release air from the oil system. Its a possibilty thats your problem.
 

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Appreciate the info on the header bolts, I'll be sure to put that on my checklist as I'll be doing the 500 mile service. Just 344 miles to go.
 

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Broke 500 miles this weekend. Looks like I'm changing the oil next weekend!
 

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Looks like 25 ft./lbs. of torque for the header bolts. Going the check mine next weekend.
 
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Did the 500 mile oil and filter change this morning. The filter and the drain plug are located very nicely so I didn't need to remove any plastics to do the oil and filter change. The Ninja 1000 uses the exact same filter as the ZZR600. K&N KN-303, changed the oil with one 17mm socket. My exhaust header bolts were not loose. Went over the entire bike to make sure everything was in order. Cleaned and lubed the chain too. Rode about 150 miles today in the heat and got rained on the last 3 miles on my way home. Sure did feel good with the mesh gear I was wearing.
 

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Did an early oil change (335 miles). The oil drain bolt is easy to access, the filter takes a bit more finesse. I wish the fairing designer had allowed an extra inch in the lower fairing cut-out to more easily get a socket wrench to the oil filter canister. I just tightend the canister by hand and will check for leaks. Mest it checking the header bolts, thanks for the T
 

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Did an early oil change (335 miles). The oil drain bolt is easy to access, the filter takes a bit more finesse. I wish the fairing designer had trimmed back the lower fairing cut-out an extra inch to get more easily get a socket wrench to the filter canister. Luckily I had a filter wrench in my collection that approximated a good fit. I'll tighten the canister by hand (13 ft-lbs isn't much) and check for seeps. Next is checking the header bolts, thanks for the torque number NinjaRocket.
 

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If you use a K&N oil filter, there's a 17mm nut welded on the end which allows for easy removal with a box wrench. IMHO worth the added $ over stock filter.
 

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If you use a K&N oil filter, there's a 17mm nut welded on the end which allows for easy removal with a box wrench. IMHO worth the added $ over stock filter.
Very true and a great feature especially if you need to safety wire the filter for track duty. On the flip side, don't use that built in nut to tighten the filter, it can easily crack and leak oil if overtightend.
 

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Do they still tighten the filter to the point where it takes 3-4 people to loosen it? On my 2012, it had to have been tightened by the same guy who did the countershaft sprocket. No lie, I'll guess 40 lb/ft torque is how bad it was.
 

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I thought when reading the owners manual of my 14 N1k re torquing the heads was part of the first 600 mile service. My dealer quoted me $175 and I thought it was reasonable considering the cost of oil/ filter. Another consideration is if warranty is voided if you do the first service yourself. Not sure, just throwing it out there.
 

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Agree on the plastics near the filter. I changed the filter without removing any plastic but had to kind of bump against it with very short single click ratchet strokes to do it. I was thinking if i ever have that plastic off i would carve it out a bit to make future filter changes even easier.
 

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My dealer in Calgary wanted some $320 (CDN) or so for the first service. I got a list of what they would do and it was essentially an oil change plus a bunch of checks... most of which sounded like visual inspections. I didn't want to pay $320 for an oil change so did it myself.
 

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I did my own 1st service and was advised to check and re-tighten the exhaust header bolts/nuts. Well sure enough these bolts did need to be tighten as they were somewhat loose so... change your oil, look at all the fluids and tighten the header nuts. Also check/tighten all bolts to be sure none have been loosened or not tight to begin with (as I did but all others were fine).

Then you have done all they would do and more (not sure they all tighten the header...)
Again, this harkens back to an old thread. the main reason it's a dealer service is so that the dealer can check the bike to make sure nothing is about to fall off. We had one guy post that his front fender fell off at speed, at very low milage.
 
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