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Saw a FB post today on a 2020 owner that has nearly 1000 kilometers on a 17 39 sproket set up with no issues. I asked a couple of questions and to be honest my BS meter is setting on 0. Has anyone else tried this on the 2020. We all know what it does to 17 through 19.
 

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A Black 2019 N1K
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The comments made on Facebook.

Jason Sleep
Looks like my front & rear sprocket change has been successful on my 2020 Ninja 1000SX. I have done 910km now and no engine warning lights have appeared yet. The bike runs really well, with it doing 3700rpm at 100km/h instead of the original 4200rpm. I changed front from 15 tooth to 17 tooth and rear from 41 to 39. I am guessing they changed something in the latest model to avoid the speed sensor issue ?
 

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Yeah, I saw this post and the comments too. He was able to drop about 500 rpm as far as I could ascertain. Not too much of an improvement but it helps for sure.

What was more interesting was his top speed changes -closer to 300, that's amazing!!
 

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@agurudev
Dont be fooled, that's a theoretical top speed based on rpm and gear ratio. My guess is we would need 165 or more RWHP to do that.
 

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@Avintage69 - agree completely, even his post spoke about 303 and 296 for some other gearing, too many exact numbers to be anything but theoretical. I am not sure about what the actual top speed is on the bike but 258 is something that I have seen
 
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This might not be an issue until his traction control activates? Maybe it will never show up as a problem. No one really knows. Is it worth the risk for a 500rpm drop?

Facebook is the place for the casual owner. Be careful about what ideas you get from there. The guy had to remove his case saver to use the 17 tooth sprocket. If a chain breaks, the front guard can often keep it from bunching up and destroying the case. Is that a good trade off?

Also, I dont know how many bikes I checked in and had the owners say, " No, it's all good. Running like a top. Never been better....I just wanted you to change brake pads."

You walk out to the bike, and start it up. The abs light would be bright. "What about this?" As I point to the light?....wtf?

"Yes", they say, "That light is always on. It tells you it's an abs bike"
 

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I just did a conversion +1/-1 (16/40) on my 2020 N1k. I put the brake caliper mount spacer in backwards (which caused all sorts of problems since the read wheel speed sensor was too far from the ring). Once I fixed that everything was good. I reset the errors after fixing the spacer, no more warnings. It dropped from 6800 to 6200 rpm at an indicated 100mph.

Since the speed is taken at the rear wheel (and not at the front sprocket), the speedo is still reads about 5% high.
 

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This might not be an issue until his traction control activates? Maybe it will never show up as a problem. No one really knows. Is it worth the risk for a 500rpm drop?

Facebook is the place for the casual owner. Be careful about what ideas you get from there. The guy had to remove his case saver to use the 17 tooth sprocket. If a chain breaks, the front guard can often keep it from bunching up and destroying the case. Is that a good trade off?

Also, I dont know how many bikes I checked in and had the owners say, " No, it's all good. Running like a top. Never been better....I just wanted you to change brake pads."

You walk out to the bike, and start it up. The abs light would be bright. "What about this?" As I point to the light?....wtf?

"Yes", they say, "That light is always on. It tells you it's an abs bike"
Just out of curiosity and for the sake of knowledge. I checked that our "bikes" or at least the whole Z1000sx to the Ninja 1000 SX of 2020/21 have the same 15T front to 41T rear correct?

If presumably I go by simple physics and say "I wanna remove some rotational mass from the rear wheel but also dont want to mess up with the ratio of the gears" and this beacause:
Already explained my case in another part of the forum regarding my 55 rear tire and its connection to the effects of the TC in different LEVELS!

Also I hear people say that speed is meassured at the rear sensor and yes you are right, but the Bosch system need the info from the front wheel as well for the TC and that I can approve with a simple CruiseControl case.
1. Alone setting CC at 130kmh, dash showing 127-128kmh cause of road wind and ****
2. With Pillion (rear tire squished) setting CC at 130kmh again, dash showing 128 but mostly 129kmh, basically smaller perimeter/radius of rear tire.

No genius here just an electronic engineer putting his book knowledges into real life comparison aaaaaaand my big *** questions comes up now:

WHAT IF instead of 15t and 41t with ratio of 2.73, I drop to 14T and 38t with ratio of 2.71 (gain some acc) for the sake of less rotational mass from the rear sprocket or not that extreme with just a 39T with ratio of 2.79 BUT bigger risk of TC failing ??

The force great is with you master rcannon409 please enlighten me....🙏

p.s sorry for the big mess of the arguments!
 

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2.71 vs 2.73 is nothing. You won't notice that in any way. That's as insignificant as tire wear. The idea would probably work.

If you want to remove some rotating weight, that you will feel, have a look at the flywheel. No one is completely sure what the 2020 flywheel looks like. It's a different part number than what I had on my 2012. 3 of 4 oz from it makes an incredible change in the bikes feel.

You might like this site. If you plug in all the info, it shows rpm and speed differences based on gearing changed. The Ninja is in there, so it should be specific and accurate.
 

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2.71 vs 2.73 is nothing. You won't notice that in any way. That's as insignificant as tire wear. The idea would probably work.

If you want to remove some rotating weight, that you will feel, have a look at the flywheel. No one is completely sure what the 2020 flywheel looks like. It's a different part number than what I had on my 2012. 3 of 4 oz from it makes an incredible change in the bikes feel.

You might like this site. If you plug in all the info, it shows rpm and speed differences based on gearing changed. The Ninja is in there, so it should be specific and accurate.
Which one is the link you are talking about?
 
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