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Discussion Starter #21
I asked about the O2 sensor before flashing and received the following response.
"With the stock headers and catalytic converter in place, no physical modification to the bike is necessary! With headers installed and the catalytic converter removed, you would need to unplug the O2 sensor and plug the AIS feed line coming off the bottom of the airbox, BUT with the cat still in place we leave these features functional."

Still new, but took it out for a 100 mile loop yesterday and no issues.
 

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I asked about the O2 sensor before flashing and received the following response.
"With the stock headers and catalytic converter in place, no physical modification to the bike is necessary! With headers installed and the catalytic converter removed, you would need to unplug the O2 sensor and plug the AIS feed line coming off the bottom of the airbox, BUT with the cat still in place we leave these features functional."

Still new, but took it out for a 100 mile loop yesterday and no issues.
Night Train,

I plan on doing the same with my 2017 N1K thru Ivan...

Bc2
 

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This isn't even from Ivan. This is v cycle nuts explanation of why you want the O2 sensor disabled. Ivan actually turns it off and maps this area, himself. Its not desireable, at all, if you care about small throttle opening performance...low speed stuff. Driving through a parking lot speeds. For me, this was a big deal. Full throttle power is great, but this slow speed stuff a person uses, all the time.

I know there are several types of O2 sensor, but the one you want disabled...the ones we have... are slow acting. It's only active at low rpm and it's working to keep the cat hot. Other types you coud use for active tuning, like Dyno Jets autotune, but not this one.

"Disabling the o2 sensor. When the o2 sensor is active(small throttle openings and lower rpm's) the fuel injection uses the signal it sends out to keep the air/fuel ration in a narrow band. Usually around 14.5 to one. On some bikes like the fz09 this causes a bump in the throttle and surging as the bike switches back and forth between closed loop( o2 sensor active) and open loop.(o2 sensor inactive). Disabling the o2 sensor allows me to control the fueling through all throttle positions across all rpm's and makes for a much smoother throttle. I recommend disabling it where ever it is available."
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The peer pressure and wanting to know the unknown has gotten to me. My ECU is on its way to Ivan's. I will be writing a review in the near future. Cannot wait! It's a good thing you guys weren't around in a my formative years. LOL
 

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Be careful, RC's very persuasive. Just ask my Proctologist. :eek:

Seriously, I'm glad you're doing it. It will be fun to hear certain members lose their but plugs (I know, I'm very anal today) when you post how superior Ivan's flash is.
I was going to wait to the winter to send my ecu in, but I may do it soon.
 

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They don't make em like they used to.
 

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Night trains review will be a good one. Hes will have been able to try both of them, really close together.

It's not worth holding off on this flash. If you pay for fast shipping, you are down for a few days. Just shipping time as Ivan doesnt hold ecus overnight. He does them as they come in and ships out the same day.

For me it was a big deal. I hated one specific thing about this bike. When I left a stop sign, or stop light, it was fine if I left at 3000 rpm, but if I tried to ride away, with the flow of traffic, I never knew how the bike was going to respond. There was always a dead spot right around 1700-2200 rpm. Sometimes it was bad, other times not as bad, but it was inconsistent as can be, and I hated that. I like two stroke dirt bikes, and they respond like this flash does. Not hard to handle, but you get what throttle you ask for. You dont get that when you have an active O2 sensor.

When I upgraded to the current, e6 flash, that was all gone. This flash made those small throttle openings worth something instead of dead spots and pretty much changed my mind on this bike. I had the max power it would make for a long time. That's easy to get, for anyone, but the small throttle stuff is where the quality shows.
 

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I always liked this video. It's pretty old, but is still amazing. None of it is true. It was based on a rumour, back around 2014. The system doesnt work this way, and has no memory to be "calibrated". The guy who made the video wants so badly to believe its true......its worth a watch, but its 100% false. This guy didnt do, or accomplish anything.

And no...this isnt going to work on the ninja any more than it worked for this c14 owner. I think cars do this, to a degree, so it feeds off of that.

 

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low pipe so less exhaust smell on your clothes. Going to have a different chassis. I'm real curious to see how this bike feels.
 

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I always liked this video. It's pretty old, but is still amazing. None of it is true. It was based on a rumour, back around 2014. The system doesnt work this way, and has no memory to be "calibrated". The guy who made the video wants so badly to believe its true......its worth a watch, but its 100% false. This guy didnt do, or accomplish anything.

And no...this isnt going to work on the ninja any more than it worked for this c14 owner. I think cars do this, to a degree, so it feeds off of that.

Not having a Connie I had no idea that you could calibrate a twisted wire by pulling on it!!! Ivan should check into this!!!
 

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Eagle, of course that would be silly.....i remember the dialogue, back then. The secret was to do with turning the key on and off......???? That was the
deal.... the forum lost a bunch of content or i would show you the thread where about 90% thanked this guy for making their bikes run better.
 

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Eagle, of course that would be silly.....i remember the dialogue, back then. The secret was to do with turning the key on and off......???? That was the
deal.... the forum lost a bunch of content or i would show you the thread where about 90% thanked this guy for making their bikes run better.
There was something going around similar to this about the FJR. The difference (IIRC) is the FJR is cable from the grip but electronic at the throttle bodies. So there was a sequence with on/off and rolling the throttle close to WOT a couple times. That actually worked for me. There is also a mode you can put the FJR in that allows you to view a numeric increase/decrease while slowly and evenly going from shut/WOT. Again, if I remember correctly, that was to identify if a TBS was required. Perhaps this is where this guy got the idea.
 

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Ok, so maybe that's why they figured it would work here, with the c14? Most , or many of these lies are based on truth. I dont think bike owners really try to deceive people, but theres never a low supply of bad information.

The c14 had two others. We had a Motoman type guy , in the forum, who had spent years selling "Motoman" type flashes. He did all he could, but when Ivan released his, it destroyed his business. Not like Ivan tried to, or even wanted to, these c14 guys wanted the best available, and without the good software, you cant compete.

So, he tried to sell us on these two.

1...The c14 will never be smooth on/off throttle because its shaft drive. It will NEVER be as smooth as a chain. (100% not true) Ivan's flash, go figure, didnt have this built in drivetrain lash. In fact, it might be less than a chain drive.

2...All you had to do to make your bike smooth in on/off throttle was to eliminate play in your throttle cables.

This guy was bad and never failed to invent some reason why he was not able to get this on/ off throttle stuff correct.

Reading about Night Trains experience made me remember all this deceptive nonsense. "With a stock header, we leave the O2 sensor active." Translation......I dont know how to tune with he stock header. I dont have anything better than stock so I'll leave it as is. Cant get hurt that way.

No big deal if he charged 50-75.00 for the work. There are probably enough changes to pay that ( benefit of doubt) , but anything in triple digits is robbery.
 

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Ok, so maybe that's why they figured it would work here, with the c14? Most , or many of these lies are based on truth. I dont think bike owners really try to deceive people, but theres never a low supply of bad information.
Agree. Even the fix I noted above with the FJR worked for some owners and didn't for others, because the others had a different throttle issue. I am that case as well. After I did the little trick with the throttle, it improved. Later after several thousands miles my bike started acting up again! I tried the fix and it didn't help. It didn't help because this time it needed a TBS and clean and tighten the battery terminals!! But the symptoms were very similar.
 
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