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I know the part is available, but can someone tell me (definitively) if a 17T front sprocket will fit under the chain cover?

Thanks.
 

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A 16 won't fit without mods, I'm sure a 17 will be much worse. Don't know if it will go or not though.
 

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No need for a17 front when you can use a 39 rear.

You can test a 39 tooth rear for cheap since its the oem sprocket on a newer zx10. 15.00 will get you a good one.

Ive had mine on for a thousand miles, and its coming off today. Look to mrphotomans post as to why. Hes right on the money.

Get rid of the low end snap just so I can feel more calm at 65mph? Thats about all you accomplish.
 

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the bike does not redline at 6800rpm, it is not a cruiser. the rpms are only running around 4800 or so at 65 and that is no where near redline. do not shift gears at 4000rpms , you are missing most of the fun. it will not hurt it, get those revs up and you will think you have a new bike.
 

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Like Zordo said, the 16t fits without issue. I have it on my 2k12 N1k...

I can understand the desire to drop the rpms some but a 17 tooth will drop it by 12%. Is that really how much you want to drop it?

I went with the 16 tooth sprocket to drop the rpms at 80-85 mph (cruising speed out this way).. I didn't like having the rpms at 6k+.. It was annoying (vibration etc) and I kept trying for 7th gear.

The bike still has plenty of power with a 16 tooth front sprocket...

This blog post is a pretty good read.. they tried 16/41, 16/39, and 16/37 and talk about running out of adjustment at 16/37.

Kawasaki Ninja 1000 | DOIN' TIME

~Mark
 

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Charge...........Clear!!!!!
Shew, it's alive. Had to shock this thread to gets its heart started it was so old.

Being the perpetual tinkerer and coming across a 17 tooth silent sprocket for free I had to try it.
Well I can say with out a doubt on my 2015 the 17T sprocket WELL NOT fit under the cover unless you remove the (guide plate?) from inside of it.

Seeing that I had already done all the work though of course I took it for a spin with out the cover. First thing I noticed is Idle speed was now 9 mph not 7. Then you guessed it she looses a little zip. Surprisingly it still gets up and goes but not that holly cow hold on or die, suck your eyeballs out... test your man hood kind of pull it normally has. Maybe I'm just spoiled or I'm one of those want and have people who have to have it all. LOL
Then there's the cruise speed and rpm. 4100 rpm at indicated 70 mph where before 70 was 4800 which was nice really as a blip and one down to 5th and it put you where 6th used to be which we all know pulls just fine to pass with.

P.S.
zx10 sprockets are not direct bolt ins. I had to build shims to center and take up slack on the shaft but they are splined the same.
 
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Both the zx10 and the Ninja 100 take the "same" front sprocket. Both are fronm the 13144-XXXX family.


Original ninja 1000 is 13144-0579


recent zx10 is 13144-0004


If you had to use shims, my guess was this sprocket is a 520 size instead of a 525 size. It sort of works..the pitch is the same, but there is an issue with width.


If the 17 is an oem sprocket...thats strange.....
 

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Both the zx10 and the Ninja 100 take the "same" front sprocket. Both are fronm the 13144-XXXX family.


Original ninja 1000 is 13144-0579


recent zx10 is 13144-0004


If you had to use shims, my guess was this sprocket is a 520 size instead of a 525 size. It sort of works..the pitch is the same, but there is an issue with width.


If the 17 is an oem sprocket...thats strange.....
Was told it came off a 15, ZX10R and looks just like what I was able to dig up on them.
On the rubber it's stamped #525, & 17T. I don't remember the measurements but the 17t was thinner at the nut a little, and the center line of the splines are centered on the chain teeth. I refer to it as a zero offset. Also the sprocket does not show to be directional. It's stamped the same on both sides.
On my N1K it is marked for orientation and has a slight offset. I'll get some side by sides tonight and maybe you'll be able to tell from that if it's from a different bike or something.
 

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Thats a strange one and it would be nice to see, or to know what to look for. Maybe we were messing up in trusting the 13144-xxxx number?
Online provides damn near zero info, unless confusion is the goal.



In the Sunstar catalogue, it shows a different number for the two bikes we are talking about....If I'm reading the chart correctly, it hows the 431 series for the ninja/z 1000 and a 396 series for the zx10.



http://sunstar-braking.com/docs/2015_SUNSTAR_CATALOG_WEB.pdf


However, if you go here, they are listed as the same....series 1007 ???


https://www.drivenracing.com/sites/default/files/app-charts/Chain & Sprocket Application Chart Kawasaki_1.pdf


RK chain shows them to be the same. Their chart sucks, but it shows both bike using a 32-132-xx...with xx representing the tooth count.


Its interesting because of soemoen did not catch that different offset, that would probably tear the hell out of the chain and sprocket.
 

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Here's the measurements.
Thickness of sprocket at splines for shaft.
N1K .351" ZX10 .302"
Offset of sprocket at inside face of splines

N1K +.050" ZX10 .001

The N1K sets deeper on the shaft.

Today looking at those numbers tells me I should NOT have had a .030 spacer behind the 17T. The 17 is .050 further out already which may have added to what I thought was chain noise due to the cover being off.
So doing the math again now makes the zx10 .0475?? further out than the N1K. What is that a blond hair over 1/16th or right at 1mm. Not much regardless but it's visable on the N1K sprocket.

P.S. I can't upload photos for some reason. I'll try again later.
 
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Here's the pictures I took last night, unfortunately the offset didn't show like I thought it would so I will try again on those
.
 

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Now, you did this and got perfect alignment......being you, I know it's NOW perfect.

I wonder how far off it was with the stock sprocket? I'm thinking it might have been, but who measures, or pays attention to what you are throwing away?
 

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Now, you did this and got perfect alignment......being you, I know it's NOW perfect.

I wonder how far off it was with the stock sprocket? I'm thinking it might have been, but who measures, or pays attention to what you are throwing away?
Perfect, yah right in my dreams. When I test drove the zx10 sprocket I'm pretty sure it was .070 shallow or not deep enough in towards the bike due to my getting things reversed somehow and adding a spacer on the back side when it didnt need it. With out the spacer it would have been closer and I'm thinking quiter. Might look for a newer used 17 tooth and have it machined down to as close as I can get just to play with it.
Not real sure about removing that guide plate though. I'm guessing it's a safety feature?
 

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I think that plate is a case saver...,in theory, it might guide a broken chain out, with no damage.

In reality, they are not strong enough, and often get ripped right out of the case if a chain were to break.


With you taking care of the chain, as you do, maybe better without it....? I don't believe it would bother me with it gone.
 

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I ran without the plate in my N1K with a 17 tooth sprocket. I preferred it to just a one up two down I did on my girlfriend's 2015.

This thread gets me into my hatred of the damn swingarm adjusters on the N1K. As these adjusters wear from rotation/adjustment (and they will), they will not wear evenly. Even to the best alignment, it is impossible once the blocks wear to ever get the axle square. It will be up a little on one side or forward a little on one side, or both. Yeah, you can adjust each side to a different measure, but regardless the axle is twisted in some fashion. What a retarded design. It sucked in the 80s and it still does.
 

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I ran without the plate in my N1K with a 17 tooth sprocket.
Awsome. Was there a thread on this? I really dislike our search feature right now though, ugh! I typed it in two different was even.
If not...
What brand sprocket did you run?
Did you notice any increase in noise from the front sprocket to chain contact?
 

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I ran without the plate in my N1K with a 17 tooth sprocket. I preferred it to just a one up two down I did on my girlfriend's 2015.

This thread gets me into my hatred of the damn swingarm adjusters on the N1K. As these adjusters wear from rotation/adjustment (and they will), they will not wear evenly. Even to the best alignment, it is impossible once the blocks wear to ever get the axle square. It will be up a little on one side or forward a little on one side, or both. Yeah, you can adjust each side to a different measure, but regardless the axle is twisted in some fashion. What a retarded design. It sucked in the 80s and it still does.

I agree.....and even if the materials did not wear, wtf was accomplished? Is your zx10 swingarm project still a go?


I dont believe you could even say chain adjustment is easier. A normal system works so well.
 

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Awsome. Was there a thread on this? I really dislike our search feature right now though, ugh! I typed it in two different was even.
If not...
What brand sprocket did you run?
Did you notice any increase in noise from the front sprocket to chain contact?
No additional noise, or anything else strange. I did not do a write-up, I just ran it. I did a 520 conversion at the same time as my chain was worn. I ran a JT front and a Renthal rear with a DID chain. I have lots of chains and sprockets sitting on the shelves as I have many Kawasaki's. I only had to order a front sprocket. If I was to do it again, I will still play with an even smaller rear sprocket as the Ninja 1000 is just too low geared for how I rode it. 2-up in the front is equal to around 4.75 rear, if I have the calculation correct in my head.
 
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