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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed my OEM 16T, the sprocket cover was not seating properly & the chain was rubbing. I took the drive chain guide off and it slipped on without issue. I had too grind down the guide for better clearance and it slide on smoothly. I had to do this on my CB1100 going 1 tooth up.

Went for a short ride and really like the modification. First gear will power up just not as violently as before and 5th gear now has a purpose.
 

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you can always add a tooth to the rear if need be in the future.
I'm bummed that my Renthal ultra light 16T from Motorcycle superstore
was thinner than the OEM sprocket. I ordered a JT today.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you can always add a tooth to the rear if need be in the future.
I'm bummed that my Renthal ultra light 16T from Motorcycle superstore
was thinner than the OEM sprocket. I ordered a JT today.
Alan,
I think your going to find the JT sprocket to be thinner also, its not rubber damped.
 

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since i couldn't get the nut off, i took to shop. they told me was too thin.
when jt arrives, if they say does not fit - i will ask to see for myself.
sending back nice renthal ultralight 16t tomorrow.
 

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16t

JT worked, and I like the new gearing. Not drastic, but noticeable.
 

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Speedo shows faster than before as it should, so any error probably stays the same.
 

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OK guys - just got off the phone with a guy from Sprocketcenter.com, and he said that the JT sprocket (P/N JTF1537 on their website, available with 15,16 or 17 teeth) has the 8.5mm thickness with a small shoulder that makes it compatible with the '14 and '15 N1K. He also offered that the OEM Kawi part from the '03-'06 Z1000 has the right width, rubber damper and 16T so would be a good alternative as well.
 
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I just changed out both sprockets using Supersprox. I went +1 in front and -2 in the rear. Very happy with the setup and will hopefully quit trying to shift into 7th. I felt it was way too buzzy to be considered a sport-touring bike and now feels the way I expected it to come from the factory. I had the dealer do the install at the 600 mile check-up. Also, if you use a GPS you'll notice that it corrects the overly optimistic speedo.
 

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what kind of rpm decreases are you realizing. For instance, I have a 2013 ninja ( I believe that a 2014-2015 would be different ) when I cruise at about 90 ( I ride too fast ) my tach has me in the mid 6000 range. I would really like to drop that about 1000 rpm. Has anyone figured out what adding that tooth up front really translates to. It would have to be at least an 800 rpm drop to be worth the effort involved.
 

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what kind of rpm decreases are you realizing. For instance, I have a 2013 ninja ( I believe that a 2014-2015 would be different ) when I cruise at about 90 ( I ride too fast ) my tach has me in the mid 6000 range. I would really like to drop that about 1000 rpm. Has anyone figured out what adding that tooth up front really translates to. It would have to be at least an 800 rpm drop to be worth the effort involved.
I did the +1 up front & am running a 190/55 rear tire... I'm at 5500 rpms at 83-85mph.. IIRC, I'm right about 6k rpms at 90... I'm using math to figure out the rpms since I don't have my ram mount yet to mount my phone/gps and verify true speed.

~Mark
 

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JLG,
The cost from SuperSprox was $110 for the 16 front and 39 rear. I had the dealer do the change while getting my 600 mile checkup. I think it was around $80 to change both. I would of tried it myself if the bike wasn't going in the shop anyway. The rear should not be too bad if you have a stand. I understand the front is a different story...stick a strong piece of wood between the rear spokes to lock down the center sprocket and use either an impact wrench or a very long cheater bar. The dealer had no issues doing the change. I also just installed a Vstream windshield and the bike feel so much nicer at 75 mph.
 

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I got the stock kawi 06 z1000 16 front for $25. Still need to put it on though. Winter project at this point.
 
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