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I was lucky as everyone else had warned me about this connector. When my bike was new, I sealed it and tried to make it more water resistant. Only limited success as that is such a terrible spot for a critical connection. I think they moved the regulator for 2014?

I wonder if they make an extension harness to be able to relocate the regulator? The regulator is used by Kawasaki, Polaris, Yamaha...it's popular. I'll look around and see if I can find something.
 
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'12 Ninja 1000 (w/ late model KQR panniers), 03 KTM 525 EXC
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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
It wouldn't be that great an undertaking to match or increase the wire size and add the necessary length to move the rectifier wherever you wished. I'll check out the manual for the newer bikes and compare.
 
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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
I guess the readings are within the normal range
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Yeah it's seen some weather View attachment 34664

Just got the healtech goodie from the mailbox yesterday. Will install it today and see if that sorts it out. Will also checkout the rectifier connection. Kinda funny they put it back there. That KTM has it up by the radiators. I can't remember where it was on that old ZX7R.
I'll bet I know why you cannot remember the Relay Rectifier location on your ZX7R, it's because it doesn't have one. It has a alternator. The regulator for it is inside the alternator case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
I see why my FI light came back on in short order.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Tread


Threw the healtech unit on after removing the remains of that poor resistor and worthless melted plastic. Healtech did not sort out the fi light. Wondering if I jacked up my ECU. Thing still runs fine. Then again, haven't ran the thing down the road yet. Pulled leads to battery and let it sit for ten minutes or so to see if that would clear the code. Negative. Will see if going down the road will reset the FI light. Hopefully. If not, guess I'll have to inspect the wiring back to the ecu for anything. Checked the connector and ohmed out at 15 or so ohms. Interestingly, the healtech ohms out at 81 or so ohms.
 

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'12 Ninja 1000 (w/ late model KQR panniers), 03 KTM 525 EXC
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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
I'll bet I know why you cannot remember the Relay Rectifier location on your ZX7R, it's because it doesn't have one. It has a alternator. The regulator for it is inside the alternator case.
It's been long enough I forgot about that detail too! Amazing what a few years do to a person, lol. Thank you for the clarification, 57.
 

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I see why my FI light came back on in short order. View attachment 34678

Threw the healtech unit on after removing the remains of that poor resistor and worthless melted plastic. Healtech did not sort out the fi light. Wondering if I jacked up my ECU. Thing still runs fine. Then again, haven't ran the thing down the road yet. Pulled leads to battery and let it sit for ten minutes or so to see if that would clear the code. Negative. Will see if going down the road will reset the FI light. Hopefully. If not, guess I'll have to inspect the wiring back to the ecu for anything. Checked the connector and ohmed out at 15 or so ohms. Interestingly, the healtech ohms out at 81 or so ohms.
What all is involved in the warning light? I don't remember everything, but I thought I remembered someone causing an fi light wn they accidentally adjusted the servo motor that connects to the butterflies?
 
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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
It's code #64. Complaining about the air switching valve. Saw Kenors post about three rides above 25 mph for atleast 5 to 10 mins continuous riding (highway). That is supposed to clear the code assuming it's not actively setting it. Although the service manual says it should clear itself as soon as the problem isn't presenting. Got two rides down today. Will try for a third.
 

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I see why my FI light came back on in short order.

Threw the healtech unit on after removing the remains of that poor resistor and worthless melted plastic. Healtech did not sort out the fi light. Wondering if I jacked up my ECU. Thing still runs fine. Then again, haven't ran the thing down the road yet. Pulled leads to battery and let it sit for ten minutes or so to see if that would clear the code.
Remember, Kawasaki stores the codes and only resets them after 3 successful restarts and 10 minute runs with no problems.
Rectangle Font Circle Number Paper product
 
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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Remember, Kawasaki stores the codes and only resets them after 3 successful restarts and 10 minute runs with no problems.
View attachment 34682
Thanks Ken. Will be taking the bike to work tomorrow. Hopefully clears after that. If not, might be lookin at the wiring and all that jazz. The harness looked like it wasn't shorted, atleast according to the multimeter.
 

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That clearing procedure described here is good for the later bikes, but doesn't apply to our older machines.

It does say we could view stored codes with a KDS system, but any displayed code would go away as soon as the problem is corrected.

1
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
You're right, RC. That procedure didn't hold true for my bike. I'll see if installing the old switching valve corrects it. I mean, it should if everything else (electrically) is good to go. I'll report back with my findings.

That clutch pull, man it's something else. It's way too light. Almost have to push the lever back thar last quarter or so of an inch to get it back to the perch. It's so light. It almost gets me every time, thinking something is busted or worn out. Nope, works just fine. I'll see if I can't source one of those newer clutch cables with the bend in the tube to get rid of that kink. Might be looking for a versys clutch cable as I've got the murphs risers on there and had to fudge the cable routing. Have to check and see if motion pro sells slightly longer cable for this bike.
 

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That clearing procedure described here is good for the later bikes, but doesn't apply to our older machines.

It does say we could view stored codes with a KDS system, but any displayed code would go away as soon as the problem is corrected.
Oops, my bad. Forgot what year we were dealing with... I was also thinking exhaust servo removal... I'll go away and let you guys solve the issue... :sleep:
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Oops, my bad. Forgot what year we were dealing with... I was also thinking exhaust servo removal... I'll go away and let you guys solve the issue... :sleep:
Hang on there Ken! I'll take all the help I can get 😅
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Vehicle


Sometimes I miss the old days when bikes had legitimate TRUNKS. Fit a few bottles of water in there, maybe a candy bar, sandwich, etc. Kreiga 10L bag works good when rolling without panniers. Course it helps a little when flying a long way with panniers too.
Building Sky Tire Automotive tire Window


Love the VIP parking most everywhere.
 

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Sometimes I miss the old days when bikes had legitimate TRUNKS. Fit a few bottles of water in there, maybe a candy bar, sandwich, etc. Kreiga 10L bag works good when rolling without panniers. Course it helps a little when flying a long way with panniers too.

Love the VIP parking most everywhere.
I do it with a 15L tank bag with quick release. Tea mug, camera, tiny first aid kit, couple bungees, granola bars, spare USB cable, flashlight, rags for face shield, pen and gas receipts with enough room left over for a sandwitch and bottle of pop. Fortunately, tire repair kit + air pump + tire gauge fits under the seat. That's my always on the bike, never leave home without it list.

3 feet of shade is all you need!
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Alright fellers. Got the air switching valve installed on the bike. Can hear the thing cycle when the keyswitch is turned on, killswitch is in the run position. Code is still on. #64. Really would like to get this fixed, but if this is the way I have to live... so be it. Would be nice to get this sorted out and be able to see when there is an actual problem, instead of the light being continually on. Gonna leave it on there and see if it'll sort itself out. No other codes are presenting themselves. Bike acted weird when I just jumpered the wires for the switching valve. We've all heard that fuel pump priming noise when we switch the key on, but with the wires tied together, it would prime for a brief period then stop, and just as soon start priming again. And would continue that cycle. Strange issues. Everything else is connected. Fuses are solid. Battery is fairly new and charged/holds a charge well.
 

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What accessories do you have on the bike?

This reminds me of my accidental clutch switch elimination when I used the wrong wire. Not really my fault (yes it was).

I wear hard contact lenses. You always want these lenses to have some sort of color. If you don't, they are impossible to find when you drop them on the floor. They are a hundred, or so, each, but losing one is annoying because your eye has to adapt to a new one. No two lenses are the same .

So this plan is awesome, except under specific lighting conditions, the color of wires can be messed up. Yellow or green sort of blend together and look the same. It's also more difficult if the wire has a white tracer color.

When I looked at the situation in normal light, I realized what my error was. Up until then, I swear the bike was haunted.

I'll study up on that valve. I've never done that. I've disconnected them just to avoid the decel popping. I know people love that, now, but for me that was a sign of a bad tune.
 
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Your bike had a power commander? I wonder if a previous owner messed up the tps setting? That's very easy to do as the power commander asks you to adjust it in a very specific manner and it's a nightmare to get it spot on. It's value changes based on the bikes operating temp.

Ivan doesn't have us adjust the tps, anymore, but he's basing this as if the tps is in the stock position.

The ecu controls the opening and closing of the pair valve, at low rpm.

But, if it's looking at the tps sensor, rpm, and vacuum tables at the same time, it might see that these are not matching up and throw the error?

Even though Ivan deleted the valve, he stopped it from functioning, but he didn't delete the trouble code system in the ecu.
 
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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
I installed the power commander a long time ago, and removed it not long after.

Everything accessory-wise is driven off a Rowe PDM-60. It's hooked into the battery, and has a trigger wire to turn the unit on that feeds off the accessory power circuit on the bike, iirc. It enables power to accessories 3 seconds after the key is turned on. Keeps me from having a dead battery, works great.

I installed Driven block off plates on the Reed valve things when I installed the power commander. Disconnected and removed all the hoses and plugged the airbox connection for that. Left the switching valve plugged in on top of the valve cover so the bike wouldn't throw a code.

I didn't ask Ivan about the pair valve when I sent my ecu to him. Called him yesterday and he was perplexed a bit, told me to reinstall (electrically, at least) the pair valve and see if that sorts it. I installed the pair valve, and could hear it doing its thing while the bike idled on the side stand.

Will take it out for a ride today and maybe through a little operation the ECU will recognize the pair valve is there? Strange because the manual says it will turn off the CEL as soon as the problem is rectified, not after the problem is rectified + some riding time.
 
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