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Hi guys,

I have 2014 1k Kawasaki ninja and I live in SF.
$1,600 sounds a lot.

What do you think?
That’s a lot of $$. I had mine done for about $500 a few years ago at East Bay Motorsports. They quoted me something like $750 for an adjustment, but they were all in spec so they didn’t even have to pull the cams. They tried to charge me the whole amount and I argued that without the cams coming out, their workload was less than 1/2 compared to an actual adjustment. The thing I didn’t like is that they didn’t give me measurements, only that they were “in spec”, so no trends are available to compare on later checks.

essentially I agree with other poster - I think that these modern overhead cam valves pretty much stay in spec forever unless you really thrash them, like taking them to the track.
 

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I'm coming to FL a couple times this winter. I sold the damm Hardley because it just sucks (yeah, I know, it's a Hardley) and am bringing it to a buddy in SC, then swinging down to pick up my two ZX10Rs in Miami I bought some time ago. I have another trip a couple months later to pick up my Bimota and my ZX-7R fairings that are at my painter in Fort Meyers (yes, he's that good a painter).

I'll stop by and do an oil change, spark plugs and a valve adjustment for half price.
Any chance of you throwing the Muzzy turbo kit on the Gen 1 ZX10R?
 

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I'm anxious to see the Bimota, and get a ride report on it.

I had never seen one before and we ended up in Santa Monica. Three of them, parked in a row as well as two Yamaha Rz500's. I almost wiped my eyes to be sure I wasn't seeing things.
 

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Any chance of you throwing the Muzzy turbo kit on the Gen 1 ZX10R?
No, I'm picking this up next week instead. 310rwhp 2003 ZX12R. It ran 209 MPH on the Texas Mile the first time, and a year later it ran 210 MPH. The engine was capped at 10 PSI since it's not a drag bike. It's built for 20 PSI, or around 400 hp if it's cranked up.

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Fuel tank Vehicle


I'm still getting the ZX10R, but just steal some toys off it and sell it. I've had two of the 1st Gen and just never felt comfortable on it. I'll keep the 2013 in picking up at the same time. I'll probably throw Kit cams in that one.
 

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Based on what I have read most N1K bikes don't have any valves out of specification at the first service interval of 16,000 miles. If you don't ride your bike too hard you are probably fine to skip the first inspection.

I stripped my bike down of all the fairings and hauled it to the shop. For 500 bucks they did the valve inspection and throttle body synchronization. I had skipped the first interval at 16,000. At 33,000 miles mine had four exhaust valves and one intake that needed new shims, and those were not out by much. Bike runs like new.
Maybe this is ignorance on my part, but if they are out of spec, isnt the risk simply loss of a bit of valve lift & duration? Am I missing something? Seams like the inspection is close to what the resulting repair would be if they were run until they noticeably out of spec. For $2400.00, (@15k and 30k), seams like were close to buying a new head......
 

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No, I'm picking this up next week instead. 310rwhp 2003 ZX12R. It ran 209 MPH on the Texas Mile the first time, and a year later it ran 210 MPH. The engine was capped at 10 PSI since it's not a drag bike. It's built for 20 PSI, or around 400 hp if it's cranked up.

View attachment 32887

I'm still getting the ZX10R, but just steal some toys off it and sell it. I've had two of the 1st Gen and just never felt comfortable on it. I'll keep the 2013 in picking up at the same time. I'll probably throw Kit cams in that one.
I know a guy who ran the Texas Mile on a ZX14 and crashed pretty badly. Happened in 2012.
 

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Jefferson......you are correct. If we could guarantee that your description, or thought was happening, this would be a waste of time,and money, there would be very little reason to check. BFD comes to mind...


What really happens is the clearance decreases. If this clearance gets to zero, the valve won't close.

The valve,and the cam are basically wear proof, under normal conditions. However, the valve seat is not. If things go south, the valve can seat, into it's seat, just a little more than it did when it left the factory. Maybe the seat wasn't seated properly? Maybe the factory set the head tithe tight side of the measurement? All kinds of "what if".

If the clearance goes to zero, or beyond zero, the valve can't properly close. It would never touch the seat. Your compression is gone. This also burns the valve and seat as it's letting the combustion process by. It doesn't take long to where the damage is severe. You have to rebuild the head. We have to check it,and use a thinner shim,before this can happen.

Measuring valves is not easy, although it sounds like it would be.. It's not like cutting a 2x4. The demensions you are working with is about like taking a few sheets of copy paper The thickness of these 2 paper sheets is similar to your allowable clearance. You measure to stay within this range. Metal temperature can influence the measurement. How tight you close your calipers. How hard you push your feeler gauge...this all factors in.

So, yes, you HAVE to check this to know , for sure, that this isn't happening. But, you can't make a mistake.

I've seen way more Japanese heads damaged from mistakes than I have from the wear process.

I THINK a person could ride the bike 300,000 miles and not have this become a factor. Sure, the valve might not be in range, but it's been a long time since I heard of a Japanese street bike going to zero.
 
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Jefferson......you are correct. If we could guarantee that your description, or thought was happening, this would be a waste of time,and money, there would be very little reason to check. BFD comes to mind...


What really happens is the clearance decreases. If this clearance gets to zero, the valve won't close.

The valve,and the cam are basically wear proof, under normal conditions. However, the valve seat is not. If things go south, the valve can seat, into it's seat, just a little more than it did when it left the factory. Maybe the seat wasn't seated properly? Maybe the factory set the head tithe tight side of the measurement? All kinds of "what if".

If the clearance goes to zero, or beyond zero, the valve can't properly close. It would never touch the seat. Your compression is gone. This also burns the valve and seat as it's letting the combustion process by. It doesn't take long to where the damage is severe. You have to rebuild the head. We have to check it,and use a thinner shim,before this can happen.

Measuring valves is not easy, although it sounds like it would be.. It's not like cutting a 2x4. The demensions you are working with is about like taking a few sheets of copy paper The thickness of these 2 paper sheets is similar to your allowable clearance. You measure to stay within this range. Metal temperature can influence the measurement. How tight you close your calipers. How hard you push your feeler gauge...this all factors in.

So, yes, you HAVE to check this to know , for sure, that this isn't happening. But, you can't make a mistake.

I've seen way more Japanese heads damaged from mistakes than I have from the wear process.

I THINK a person could ride the bike 300,000 miles and not have this become a factor. Sure, the valve might not be in range, but it's been a long time since I heard of a Japanese street bike going to zero.
If the bike is running fine I'm not planning to mess with it until 32k. At that point, assuming I can find a shop I trust in my area, I'll get them checked. I'm also very unlikely to change plugs every 7500. I'm thinking every other oil change should be fine for that, unless you folks can think of a compelling reason otherwise. I've never heard of a iridium plug loosing an electrodinto the bore, but maybe I'm wrong?
 

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I also can't help but wonder how much of this maintenance list might be emissions based? If someone told me the plugs fit in that category, I would believe them.

I know of one specific Suzuki, a two stroke, that would damage spark plugs. Other than that, not so much. I have not heard of it happening on a Japanese street bike. If a person is not going to maintain something, that's a good place to skip.
 

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I also can't help but wonder how much of this maintenance list might be emissions based? If someone told me the plugs fit in that category, I would believe them.

I know of one specific Suzuki, a two stroke, that would damage spark plugs. Other than that, not so much. I have not heard of it happening on a Japanese street bike. If a person is not going to maintain something, that's a good place to skip.
I think it's a combination of things. Warranty violations may also be one. Being unable to prove plugs were changed on schedule could be problematic if a catastrophic failure mechanically "gaps" them. I suspect though this is simply to support their dealer network. A reliable, low maitanance bike does not have much revenue potential for dealers. Until my mileage /driveability starts to suffer, I'm not too worried about the plugs or the valves.
 

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These plugs are pre gapped. You don't gap them as they are good to go, right out of the package. The plug is used by some fairly popular automobiles. Nissan and Subaru come to mind. It isn't a motorcycle specific plug.

It's popular enough to where Auto Zone will have them in stock. Half the price Kawasaki wants for them, too.

One argument I would make for changing them is because motorcycles often times don't see car like mileages. If a plug stays in an engine for many years, they can be difficult to remove. Still, this one is fairly well sealed. I don't think corrosion is much of a factor.

Lots of ideas as to why, but none make much sense.
 
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