Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went out for a ride today and everything was working as it should.

After filling up she wouldn't start start and it seemed as though the battery was completely dead (pushed start and it ticked, dash lights dim etc) so my immediate thought was battery or charging.

Tested the battery which still reads 12.4v so it can't be the battery or charging system (I think?) however when I pushed the start button and tested the volts, it just clicked and died again, the battery was showing 6v and the ECU started ticking as though it was attempting to draw loads of power, after about 10 seconds of ticking it would stop, the fuel pump would prime again and the battery returns to 12.4v.

Any ideas? I'm far from an expert
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
Bad rectifier would be my guess?? 12.4 volts is also only 80% charge not 100% and charging should be around 14.4 to 14.6 volts

Wait for confirmation first though - I mean easy check for battery is fit another 1 or put it on a charger for a few hours - if bike starts then check charging.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,682 Posts
Hasan, I agree. A new battery is rarely a bad purchase. If you buy a new one and charge it, that's one item you can scratch off the list of problems.

12.4 , or so......if that "or so" means 12.2 or 12.3, replacement makes even more sense.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,402 Posts
Battery or connections. If you were measuring the voltage across it's terminals when it read 6V, it's definitely the battery and it needs replacing.

If you were measuring the voltage somewhere else on the bike, it MIGHT be a loose battery/ground connection.

In either case, keep an eye on the charging system after things get running again. The charging system should be putting out 14-14.5V at 4k rpm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Went out for a ride today and everything was working as it should.

After filling up she wouldn't start start and it seemed as though the battery was completely dead (pushed start and it ticked, dash lights dim etc) so my immediate thought was battery or charging.

Tested the battery which still reads 12.4v so it can't be the battery or charging system (I think?) however when I pushed the start button and tested the volts, it just clicked and died again, the battery was showing 6v and the ECU started ticking as though it was attempting to draw loads of power, after about 10 seconds of ticking it would stop, the fuel pump would prime again and the battery returns to 12.4v.

Any ideas? I'm far from an expert
Hello ,
If I could be of some help here.
Anything less than 12.75 is not a fully charged battery. Testing only volts is not a fair test. CCA is the cold cranking amps the battery is rated.
you must have both. You would need a load tester to measure the amps to know for sure. But,,,,
5 years is all ya gonna get out of a battery, anything more time, your on borrowed time.
If you met this , buy a new battery.
Buy a battery with the same CCA’s or go higher cca’s, but never lower. Quality does natter
You can’t properly test a charging system with out a battery measuring 12. 5 or higher.
Again you would need good equipment to measure an alternator, like fluke meter with an amp clamp but,,,,
The battery charge light on your instrument panel is a good indication of the alternator output. It won’t tell the true amp output but if the light is out when running it’s producing power.
Again you need both , volts and Amps to keep a battery fully charged.
if the new battery goes weak quickly after replacement then I would test the the electrical system for a parasitic draw. Super easy to do and I’m sure YouTube will help you. If that proves to be fine the take it in for a qualified bike tech to test the alternator.
hope this helps,
Happy holidays to all
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top