RPM dial stuck at 8k - Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 12-05-2018, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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RPM dial stuck at 8k

So I started my bike after 2 weeks of sitting in cold Boston weather. Battery was taken out and plugged to a battery tender.

Decided to ride today, it's about 26 degree F. Before even putting the key in it, I notice that the RPM dial is at 8k (bike switched off)

When it starts, by the sound of it I know its all normal because it idles at higher RPM till it reaches temps of 125-133F then settles down.
Also, while riding, it shifts and runs normal - not by what RPM dial reads but the sound of it. So it's not actually running at 8k idle

Do you know how my rpm needle got stuck there? is there a cable somewhere to adjust it (note that its not the actual RPM that needs adjustment, just the needle)

OR Do i need to buy a new instrument cluster just for that needle
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-05-2018, 10:51 AM
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@Prath our Rpm gauges are moved by an electric current that generates a magnetic field. As the field increases it makes the needle try to align itself with it and as there is a spring that resist this action you get your movement. So no there's not a cable to replace.
I'm afraid there's something wrong internal but......
First thing is look for a wire under the seat that might have been left off when reinstalling the battery.
Then if not I would try Key on Key off maybe three times with about two seconds in between on, off and off, on. It might realign its self I don't know but a simple test and it shouldn't hurt anything.

If that doesn't work and your the determined type that's confident?? take it to red in first. This will cause the strongest field possible and might get it to realign. If you haven't hit red line before you'll know when you hit by the loss of power so don't worry just slowly roll on the power till there is no more.
If none of that realigned it my guess would be the spring in the cluster on the needle has some how came off, broke or gone weak, but that has not happened to anyone I've heard of. Keep us informed.

Good luck
Kenneth

6-25-2016, New 2015N1K, now w/38000 and updated regularly
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post #3 of 15 Old 12-05-2018, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Hi @Avintage69

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I suspect something with the battery install as well. It was cold and maybe I didn't connect the terminals correctly (as in not held by screws tight enough)
I will try re-installing this afternoon.

First thing is look for a wire under the seat that might have been left off when reinstalling the battery
Where is this wire? I usually just connect the +ve and -ve terminals along with the pigtails to the battery
Quick question - the bike cranks and everything is normal in terms of operation. Can this discharge my battery or cause other harm?

I will post after I try re-installing the battery if that worked

Last edited by Prath; 12-05-2018 at 11:31 AM.
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post #4 of 15 Old 12-05-2018, 03:21 PM
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As for a wire not connected or came loose I'm not sure there is even one that could have been missed. I just mentioned it as something you or I could see and fix in general so should look. I've learned to look for the obvious first so as to not be made a fool of later.

As to the broken tach damaging something else I don't know. I can't see how it could but on newer machines today the things that are tied into one another sometimes amazes me. Would be prudent to pay attention to temps, mpg / kpl and sounds till you get it fixed though.

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post #5 of 15 Old 12-05-2018, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Tried removing and reconnecting the battery. Still the same except now it bounces back and forth trying to settle down after a full sweep that usually happens when key turned to On position

Temps seem fine on the way to work today. Like I mentioned, it is cold here but no overheating or running too cold kind of situation

I took a video, for some reason quick reply does not allow attaching mp4 files at the moment
Bringing it to the shop tomorrow
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post #6 of 15 Old 12-05-2018, 04:35 PM
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This problem is unusual. I dont think Ive seen it, before, especially related to our ninja 1000's.


If you are trying to fix this yourself, be sure and go back over any modifications you have made. If you have hooked up anything to the electrical system, start there.

2012 Ninja 1000
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post #7 of 15 Old 12-05-2018, 05:43 PM
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@Prath Here is a tread from the Euro z1000sx Forum:


https://www.z1000sx.co.uk/index.php/topic,8291.0.html


If the link doesn't work the good bit was:


1.
a) The problem is the tachometer (rev counter) display gets out of sync with the rest of the bike.
b) The bike importer (i.e. Kawasaki UK, or, in my case, Kawasaki Europe directly) are the ones who know of a procedure that has a chance of re-syncing the display tachometer with the bike. This, to me, means that it's obviously not an entirely isolated incident.
c) If the re-syncing procedure does not succeed, you are going to need a new display.

2. When this problem first appeared, I had taken the battery of the bike for winter storage. So I've first tried taking out the battery again and putting it back on. This did not help.

3. Reading on this thread that maybe interrupting it during start up would help it reset, I tried that too. It did not work. Further more, I believe this has a chance for them to later refuse warranty on the clock (unless you're in good relations with your dealer). Since the replacement for the display might be your only chance, you should NOT do this (I was too curious for my own good and tried it anyway).

4. What DID work for me was that old adage - ride it 'till it goes away I went for a good spin, put it back in the garage (tacho still stuck at 7k). Several hours later I started it again and this time, it got reset to 3.5k. Aha! An improvement!, I said to myself. So I went for another spin and, again, after ending the ride and letting it sit for a bit, when I restarted, it synced back perfectly. SUCCESS!

5. My theory is this: note that in the start-up sequence, the tachometer briefly gets pushed bellow the 7k rpm mark. I believe this is the system trying to collect data on tacho sync and correct it. I'm not sure how it works, but it might be that there was some erroneous entry due to the battery being removed and that the system needed to gather enough data for an average measurement to exclude the aberration registered and reach the correct sync point. So this is where I believe the ride might have helped - maybe it gave sufficient measurements .

Anyway, my clocks are back in sync with the bike without needing the bike shipped 400km to the nearest dealer which can execute the importer's sync procedure.



Good Luck.
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post #8 of 15 Old 12-06-2018, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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@rcannon409

Bike is pretty much stock except LVPro exhausts which is not a recent addition
The only thing that was done to the bike since RPM needle was normal vs not normal is the battery removal and re-install

@HoloQuest
I am happy to know I am not the only one experiencing this issue. Although, not gloating that it happened to your bike

#2 - you are right, even when the battery is disconnected RPM needle still stays at 8k
#3 - interrupting it during start up - tried but did not work. However, I realize now that it started flickering/ bouncing in attempts to go lower than 8k during that initial full sweep where it checks all systems
#4 - I like this idea. haha. Considering that in two days it will be put away for winter storage, I might delay spending money on a new instrument cluster

I am bringing my bike to the shop tonight. Hopefully they can detect something and make a quick fix :P
I shall post solution/update here soon
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post #9 of 15 Old 12-06-2018, 10:04 AM
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Holoquest, thats what I was going to say! You beat me to the punch again.....Uh, actually, no, I wasn't. I know that post was not yours, but....



I had to follow up with, "No shit?" That explanation sounds reasonable. I could picture that happening with a battery that was almost charged enough to get it through the cycle, but not quite. It starts, but never completes.

2012 Ninja 1000
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post #10 of 15 Old 12-06-2018, 06:33 PM
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I've also remember this happening several times to the 17 bikes after they came out. I didn't remember that the Euro thread was referring to the earlier bikes. I could not find the 17 thread but I remember it came to the same conclusion:

#3 - interrupting it during start up - tried but did not work. However, I realize now that it started flickering/ bouncing in attempts to go lower than 8k during that initial full sweep where it checks all systems.

Remember there are two ways to interrupt it during start up, with the key, or with the stop switch on the right bars. I've seen people have success both ways, so try both.

Please let us know what the outcome is.
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