Rear brake pedal spring - Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Rear brake pedal spring

Hi all I know this probably has been discussed ,but we all know the rear brake on these are somewhat useless , I have heard others have removed the main spring and this helped in some way , my question is has people here done this , are you replacing spring with one less strong or removing it altogether, if removed would it be safe
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post #2 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 07:32 PM
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Steny, I must've missed the memo about the useless rear brake...it's been working AOK so far.

Going without a return spring sounds like a VERY BAD IDEA.
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post #3 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 07:34 PM
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Removing the spring helps and really does not hurt anything. It's still safe. With the early bikes, many of us did it. The spring is basically a safety spring as we do have a spring inside the master cylinder . Also, hydraulic brakes really dont need a return spring.. They just dont work like that.

The stock brake has all kinds of problems. It's boring as hell, so PM me if you want details. The biggest problem is easy and cheap to solve. The rear pad compound is about what you might find on a child's tricycle. I think this was an effort to keep inexperienced riders safe on the early bikes. Abs was not very common on the 11 or 12 machines?

If you remove that spring and order this rear pad, the rear brake gets upgraded from useless to still garbage, but much better. At least it will be useable.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vesrah-Sint...YAAOSwyVBcbxcd
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Last edited by rcannon409; 12-04-2019 at 07:41 PM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 07:43 PM
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So, are we thinking Kawasaki just had some extra springs to get rid of?
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post #5 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 07:45 PM
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Really? Relatively easy to lock up the rear wheel (my 2011) or engage the ABS (my 2014). And that with the OEM pads. For stronger but still linear braking I like Galfer pads. I'm not sure what "all kinds of problems" are but RC is the brake guru here so maybe...
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post #6 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcannon409 View Post
If you remove that spring and order this rear pad, the rear brake gets upgraded from useless to still garbage, but much better. At least it will be useable.
I did this on rcannon's advice about 40,000 miles ago on my 2015. I plan on doing the same on my 2020 SX if it performs the same as my 2015.

Big improvement, but ABS still intervenes way to early...
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post #7 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rcannon409 View Post
Removing the spring helps and really does not hurt anything. It's still safe. With the early bikes, many of us did it. The spring is basically a safety spring as we do have a spring inside the master cylinder . Also, hydraulic brakes really dont need a return spring.. They just dont work like that.

The stock brake has all kinds of problems. It's boring as hell, so PM me if you want details. The biggest problem is easy and cheap to solve. The rear pad compound is about what you might find on a child's tricycle. I think this was an effort to keep inexperienced riders safe on the early bikes. Abs was not very common on the 11 or 12 machines?

If you remove that spring and order this rear pad, the rear brake gets upgraded from useless to still garbage, but much better. At least it will be useable.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vesrah-Sint...YAAOSwyVBcbxcd
I probably worded this wrong here , I don't mean it's useless I still get some braking I just mean compared to other bikes I had the rear on my 2011 seems it could be better etc , thanks for the info I'll send you a PM
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post #8 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 08:09 PM
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Kenors, that's the exact point, and the problem. The damn thing will lock up, no problem. However, up to that point, theres very little feel, or feedback. If a person moves up to a pad with more power, you are able to dial in some feedback before the lock up point.

As a reference point, if a person looks at aftermarket pads, the lowest rated I know of is that Galfer pad, rated "GG" in this scale: The brake pads sold in the usa HAVE to use this code. I think that's why we have trouble finding Brembo pads?

DOT Pad Codes

It's been a long time since I removed mine. As I recall, Kawasaki spaced "DF" rear pad. So little friction, it's not even on this scale and unless you ordered from Kawasaki, you wont find a pad that's that weak. The vesrah ones are stronger, but not as strong as the "HH" rated pad ebc sells.

Between that hard pad, and the heavy return spring, it's not very good for feel.

Rikifumi, for sure that spring has a purpose. If going without bothers anyone, find a smaller, less stiff spring from the hardware store. I believe Kawasaki went about 10x stiffer than needed just to be sure we dont lock the rear brake. Removing that spring is a band aid for what's really wrong, but it helps. Give it a try. You'll see the pedal returns just like it always did. You have to google something like " ninja 1000 weak rear brake" Theres stuff up there from 2012, on riderforum.

Steny, It's really worth looking at the rear brake before you do anything. Go out to the bike, and shine a flashlight into the bottom of the rear master cylinder. Notice how far you have to push the rear brake pedal to make it even start to depress the master cylinder. Think about how many times you pushed it, just a little, and never even overcame the play, and the strong spring.
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post #9 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 08:57 PM
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Steny, once upon a time I heard that Ireland gets the odd drop of rain. Maybe it was three or four? Since the rear caliper is a sliding pin single piston type, make sure those pins are clean and properly lubricated. The caliper location is perfect for copping dirt, road salt, and water.
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post #10 of 19 Old 12-04-2019, 10:02 PM
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This is a cool product if you still want a return spring. In the past, I ordered one of each so I dont remember if our bike takes the 6mm or 8mm. I THINK it's the 6mm, but measure to be sure.

https://www.fasstco.com/products/rea...-return-spring

That gives you the ability to tune the return springs tension.

This part eliminates the play from the clevis to brake pedal.

https://www.fasstco.com/products/rear-brake-clevis

There are cheaper ways to fix the clevis, but this is really easy. With these parts in place, the play is removed, and the brake pedal actually pushes the master cylinder I stead of flopping around,
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