20k valve check - Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-06-2019, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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20k valve check

In case anyone is considering doing a valve adjustment, I just had it done at 20k and one was out of spec. So, 15k may be early but I probably wouldn't push it too much beyond 20k. 2014 btw.

Anyway, just FYI 🙂.
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-06-2019, 09:24 PM
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Well least you got your money’s worth lol, how much out was it?

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post #3 of 11 Old 04-06-2019, 09:45 PM
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Mind me asking what it cost you?
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-06-2019, 10:04 PM
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I'm NOT looking forward to doing this on my H2 SX. Just pulling the PAIR valve was a nightmare. I may rotate the engine forward like they do on a ZX14R.
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ghost N1K View Post
Mind me asking what it cost you?
I had a lot of other stuff done. Valve adjustment alone would probably be $650 orso; not easy to get to.
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 07:41 AM
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Good to know. I plan on getting mine done next month for the first time at 29,000 miles. I will share the results.

By the way, was the one valve on the tight or loose side??

2013 Ninja 1000.....Osram Nightbreakers, Pazzo levers, Vesrah pads, Puig screen, R&G frame sliders / case covers / axle protector, Sargent seat, PC5 with Ivans fuel map and ECU reflash, Akrapovic full exhaust, forks and shock rebuilt by Traxxion Dynamics.

2015 30th Anniversary ZX6R.
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 10:21 AM
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I wish we had an easy way of checking this. It would be interesting to know what Lucianos bike might have measured at 6000 miles. I know. Its not exactly practical to do this. It would be good to know if the valve in question moved really early, stabilized and stayed there or to know if it slowly moved and would have been within spec at 18,000, or so.

2012 Ninja 1000
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Good to know. I plan on getting mine done next month for the first time at 29,000 miles. I will share the results.

By the way, was the one valve on the tight or loose side??
It was tight. He said number 4 exhaust side.
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 12:29 PM
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What has always kept me thinking about the valve specs is when the tolerances are checked everything is cold. When we raced 4- cycle 250 cc engines the engine builder always set the valve lash tight. He said when the engine warms up you get your tolerances back, of course every thing done was developed and checked on the Dyno and we was running roller rockers arms. we never had no issues and the valve lash was re adjusted to tight about every month.

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2014 air filter and holey bottom plate
Go Cruise Throttle lock
Ivans ECU flash
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark59 View Post
What has always kept me thinking about the valve specs is when the tolerances are checked everything is cold. When we raced 4- cycle 250 cc engines the engine builder always set the valve lash tight. He said when the engine warms up you get your tolerances back, of course every thing done was developed and checked on the Dyno and we was running roller rockers arms. we never had no issues and the valve lash was re adjusted to tight about every month.
A lot of those machines were finger rocker setup and I always set those tight. Shim under bucket I always setup as loose as I can find shims for.

I just did a valve adjustment on an 06 GSXR 1000 head on my bench. The bike had 48K miles on it and clearly never has the valves adjusted. The intakes had 1.45 to 1.6 shims in it. I went all the way down to the smallest size in my box, 1.2. I still could not get my .05mm feeler gauge in there, and spec was .10 to 20. I was hoping to use the head on my 01 GSXR1000 race bike engine. I gave up and didn't bother to check the exhaust. I threw the head in the corner. It needs new valves. BTW, this is unusual for most engines. The 05-08 GSXR1000 has titanium valves and it is not uncommon to need new valves at 50K miles. Steel valves don't stretch this bad.
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