Recommendations for new chain and sprocket? - Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-09-2018, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Recommendations for new chain and sprocket?

Well after learning its time for a new chain and sprocket Im looking for suggestions before I order parts. I could just go with the stock parts because they did last me 30k miles. But considering possibly increasing the low end acceleration since I never am gonna hit 160mph especially without a steering damper. Thoughts on best brands for durability and performance?

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post #2 of 12 Old 09-10-2018, 05:20 AM
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I have changed the chain set on my Ninja. Not that it needed to but there started a strange grating sound from the chain and I could not figure out the reason for it. So I changed the chain and sprockets and lo behold, no grating sound. Very gratifying. LOL.

I stuck to the stock chain pitch (525) but went one up on the front sprocket as I wanted the opposite of what you are seeking. Anyway, I got the DID chain (DID 525 ZVMX 112 link) and SuperSprox Stealth sprockets. Fab quality on both brands. Cannot comment on durability but these will last well beyond the life expectancy of the stock parts.

I do get your thought on the steering damper though. Most Ninja owners feel it is not required on this bike but to me it always seemed to need one. And so I got the HyperPro RSC steering damper with Dimotiv mounting kit. Looks like a million bucks on the bike and the stability of the front-end is so worth it. Bye-bye head shakes. I love it.
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-10-2018, 07:12 AM
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I agree with Bikram on the parts......DID ZVMX and Supersprox.

I could not get the pin on the stock chain to push out with my chain tool and ended up cutting it off with a Dremel and cutting wheel. No issues with the install of the DID. Be sure to use a rivet type master link and take care to not peen the rivet too much that it cracks around the edge. I used a caliper to measure and peened them to 5.6 mm.

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post #4 of 12 Old 09-10-2018, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikram View Post
I have changed the chain set on my Ninja. Not that it needed to but there started a strange grating sound from the chain and I could not figure out the reason for it. So I changed the chain and sprockets and lo behold, no grating sound. Very gratifying. LOL.

I stuck to the stock chain pitch (525) but went one up on the front sprocket as I wanted the opposite of what you are seeking. Anyway, I got the DID chain (DID 525 ZVMX 112 link) and SuperSprox Stealth sprockets. Fab quality on both brands. Cannot comment on durability but these will last well beyond the life expectancy of the stock parts.

I do get your thought on the steering damper though. Most Ninja owners feel it is not required on this bike but to me it always seemed to need one. And so I got the HyperPro RSC steering damper with Dimotiv mounting kit. Looks like a million bucks on the bike and the stability of the front-end is so worth it. Bye-bye head shakes. I love it.
I had the EXCACT problem you are describing and have been frustrated by it for over 10k miles! Finally measured distance between 20 pins and found I’m at the end of this chains life despite being able to adjust further out.

Thanks for the recommendation on chain and sprockets to both who responded I’ll definitley check that out. I’ve only had this bike past 120mph once and it started giving me pretty sibstantial wobbles, so I eased off the throttle and have kept it to 119 lol. I do want to invest in a damper but have never been able to get a good recommendation. Where did you purchase yours?

Vance and Hines Duel Exhaust (black)
Integrated LED taillight with custom fender elim.
Kawi black and gold tank pad
Gold rear spools
Shogun Frame Sliders (black)
Michelin Pilot 3 ST
Puig windscreen (black)
Smoke taillight and signal covers
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-10-2018, 10:08 AM
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EK ZVX3 chain with ZVX3 screw type master link. Super easy install and just as good as a rivet job. I run driven or JT steel sprockets. EK/RK/DID are all good chains.
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-10-2018, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowproject View Post
I had the EXCACT problem you are describing and have been frustrated by it for over 10k miles! Finally measured distance between 20 pins and found Iím at the end of this chains life despite being able to adjust further out.

Thanks for the recommendation on chain and sprockets to both who responded Iíll definitley check that out. Iíve only had this bike past 120mph once and it started giving me pretty sibstantial wobbles, so I eased off the throttle and have kept it to 119 lol. I do want to invest in a damper but have never been able to get a good recommendation. Where did you purchase yours?
I ordered for the damper and mounting kit from Australia, the vendor is Your Suspension Shop (YSS) and their site address is https://store.suspensionshop.org/

The owner is named Walter.

**************************
2016 Kawasaki Ninja 1000
G&G Moto2 exhaust cans + Akrapovic exhaust header
Rapid Bike Evo fuel controller + YouTune
BMC filter
Traxxion Dynamics front forks kit + Penske shock
Hyperpro RSC Steering Damper
Rotobox Carbon Fibre 300ST Wheels
Brembo 19RCS Corsa Corta master cylinder
HEL steel brake lines
Vesrah ZZ brake pads
Rizoma tail tidy
Baja S2 Pro auxiliary lights
Kawasaki OEM Gel Seat
HVMP bar-end weights
Shogun frame sliders
Evotech Radiator Guard
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-11-2018, 07:25 AM
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Shadow, you did a good job on that. As you figured out, having room to adjust the chain, to a tighter position is not an indicator of the chain being worn out. From the front, to back of our adjust system, there is probably close to 1.5in of movement that's possible, from the axle. The chain starts it's life, somewhere in that area, and finish is it's life in that span, too. There may be left oiver room, or not, but that part really is not important.

There is a spec that the chain needed to be, between pins, and it gets measured as such. Often times its the meaasurement between a specific number of pins.

I'm glad you figured out how to measure this. Pushing a chain beyond that point can often times up having the chain rip itself apart, and cause all kings of engine damage.
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-11-2018, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcannon409 View Post
Shadow, you did a good job on that. As you figured out, having room to adjust the chain, to a tighter position is not an indicator of the chain being worn out. From the front, to back of our adjust system, there is probably close to 1.5in of movement that's possible, from the axle. The chain starts it's life, somewhere in that area, and finish is it's life in that span, too. There may be left oiver room, or not, but that part really is not important.

There is a spec that the chain needed to be, between pins, and it gets measured as such. Often times its the meaasurement between a specific number of pins.

I'm glad you figured out how to measure this. Pushing a chain beyond that point can often times up having the chain rip itself apart, and cause all kings of engine damage.
Yes I’m glad I posted here to revisit some of this info. Having never been technically minded I’m learning as I go, so definitlet appreciate the feedback everyone has given here!

Vance and Hines Duel Exhaust (black)
Integrated LED taillight with custom fender elim.
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-11-2018, 03:04 PM
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I've settled on 16/40 for the sprockets to reduce the revs and vibration in 6th gear at my normal commuting speed of 70-75mph. There's so much torque in this motor that i still have good punch at low revs with the taller gearing, though it certainly isn't as wheelie prone....

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post #10 of 12 Old 09-14-2018, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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So as I’m getting into this repair the chain and sprockets are still stock with 30k on them. Having such a heck of a time getting that front nut off we have tried everything that a typical dealership might have. Any suggestions for what might be causing it to be this stuck? We have already tried pressing down the rear brake and using whatever 27mm bit power tool and it hasn’t budged. In fact it is beginning to strip the nut out to the point I’ve already ordered a replacement just in case something worse happens with this one. I know I’ve seen other post about having trouble with this specific repair on our bikes but can’t seem to find anything that mentions a fix in past forum posts or on YouTube. Thoughts?

Vance and Hines Duel Exhaust (black)
Integrated LED taillight with custom fender elim.
Kawi black and gold tank pad
Gold rear spools
Shogun Frame Sliders (black)
Michelin Pilot 3 ST
Puig windscreen (black)
Smoke taillight and signal covers
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