Ultimate 4th Gen Ninja 1000 guide to go fast - Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum
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post #1 of 231 Unread 09-01-2018, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Ultimate 4th Gen Ninja 1000 guide to go fast

Hello guys,

I bought my 2015 ninja 1000 April 2017 new in crate. It is my first bike and wanted something that was comfortable and didn't break the bank.

From the time of purchase till now I have put 17k miles on her with ZERO issues. The bike has been abused since day one. I probably have over 500 top speed runs on her. 300 logged in my Dragy app used for data logging improvements when street tuning.

The bike is extremely consistent and believe it to be a very solid/reliable platform.

1. I will start with saying that I was not very impressed with how the bike handled in stock form. This prompted me to try a 190/55 s21 tire and then was
curious to see what a 200/55 profile s21 would feel like. I really enjoyed the look of the 200/55 and handling aspects so I have been stuck riding on that
size since 8k miles. I go thru rears every 3k. Switching to the M7rr has proved to be well worth it and now am trying the Rosso III. The s21 IMO cannot
handle the extra weight of the bike in fast pace riding situations.

2. Next suspension mod was to change the ergonomics of the bike. I was not happy with how upright the BP was. It does not help when leaned over going
at a high rate of speed. For this, I decided to buy woodcraft universal clip ons with 1.5inch risers. These do work very well and will allow the levers to
clear the fairings with a 2005 zx10r front brake master cylinder. The master cylinder has PLENTY of braking power and will be no issue. Body position
roughly has moved forward by 2 inches and down 1.5 inches. I am 6 feet tall and have long arms so it has helped comfort for me aswell as offering
better control of the bike.

3. Last suspension mod that I have done was lower the front by 8mm. That requires you to lift the front forks up 8mm in the triple tree. did a

4. Power mods, outside of doing internal engine work/ race fuel, I have done everything possible to this bike to make the most power possible.

First most important mod that I can suggest anyone to do is to buy the akrapovic full system. They have designed the system to work without a tune and make the most usable power. I have tested this and the bike runs awesome with no tune. My stock 1/4 mile times went from 11.1 at 125 to 10.8 at 130 with just the system using a 200/55 rear tire and 39T rear sprocket.

Second, I would suggest is to buy a DNA filter/ perform airbox mod and send your ECU to IVAN performance if you do not want to hassle with dyno/street tuning. The DNA filter offers more flow-able surface area then any other filter except MWR. MWR air filter flows alot of air and do not think Ivans flash would work well with it. DNA would be fine but he can verify with you. He is very knowledgeable. HOWEVER I did not go that route. I opted to buy Woolich racing DIY kit and tune my bike myself for reasons below.

NOT so normal stuff that people wouldn't think to do for power enhancements below.

We all know that 2014+ bikes come with an intake cam that is not as aggressive as the 2010-2013 bikes. Bottom line is the 3rd gen cam has .012" more lift, lobe center of 107 vs 110 and has 6 degrees more duration. Lobe center being 3 degrees less = more power to be made earlier in the power band however with more duration and lift will allow for power to be carried for a much longer time. Ivan has dynoes to prove this.

I made the swap, and it is awesome! I shaved off a conservative half a second in my 60-130 pulls using dragy and 5mph gain in my 1/2 times. Overall ET have stayed similar but this is due to my riding skills that are not up to par yet in regards to launching the bike with the extra power. My 1/8th is suffering badly.

Next change I have done is take out the extremely long 3 inch velocity stacks that the 4th gens come with and put in 4 of the shortest stacks that the 3rd gen come with, being 2inch long. This did not effect low end TQ as I was expecting. The bike pulls like a freight train from 2k all the way to 11.5k with no sign of signing off. 4th gen cam signed off at 10.5k.

Next change I made was swap the NGK plugs for some Brisk Racing LGS plugs. In theory they should offer a better burn, and I did notice the bike responded better.

Next change, I lightened the flywheel by 10oz. This is done by going to a machine shop that can machine the existing OD of the flywheel down to 125 thou, stock is 245 thou in OD. This has helped with rev matching, as the motor responds quicker to throttle input. Bike also feels like it picks up quicker but I do not think its significant enough to see any real improvement on the dragy logs. All in all I recommend doing this if you like a bike to react more like a super sport bike in throttle feel and sound.

Next thing I did was compare DNA and MWR filters. MWR is king, it required more fuel and has helped pick up 1mph in my 1/2 consistently. The bike sounds louder and I love it. I did not buy their HE version.

Obviously the last thing is tuning. I am tuning the bike myself with Woolich and it has proved to work for me. Unfortunate they do not have their quick shifter available for it currently because of an update they are doing to the product. Tuning will make the most difference in Low/Mid range where we spend most of the day riding.


In summary, the over and beyond mods that this bike has compared to the rest of the ninja's that I have noticed is as follows.

1. Woodcraft clip ons
2. 200/55 rear tire
3. Lightened Flywheel
4. Brisk LGS racing plugs
5. 3rd gen Intake cam swap
6. 3rd gen 2inch velocity stacks
7. MWR foam filter
8. Self Tuned

I feel like the intake cam was the stepping stone to get to the next level of performance with the bike. With that being said, I am looking forward to the new 6th gen zx10r. This ninja is just not fast enough for me.

Misc-

I run EBC HH pads, CRG shorty levers, Hotbodies windscreen (clears levers with clip-ons), Ninja 250 mirrors with 25mm spacers.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have. Pictures and video links are below.

I will have to update this to my current setup and review.




























Best to date time for 3rd gen cam, (Still tuning)



Best to date time for 4th gen cam (tune was best I could do)



I will say this, from ONLY akra can to finished mod list and current tune my bike has shaved over more then a second off my 60-130 roll on times.

It's a pretty fast Ninja 1000,

Thanks for viewing!

Last edited by proto2o; 09-01-2018 at 09:37 PM.
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post #2 of 231 Unread 09-01-2018, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 231 Unread 09-03-2018, 01:05 PM
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I don't like the foam filter (that's pure monkey junk), there are way better elements, that come pre oiled and here, exhausts have to pass inspection & emissions, which also means sound. Emission requirements=education. I also don't want to remap my CPU, to dump more fuel. The 14-15s make more power than the previous ones, by 4-6 hp/4-5 ft, it doesn't need a new cam. It's actually "the other way around." The last ones dyno lower. NGKs are sufficient for me & they are already irridium.

Bridgestone & Dunlop tires are way better, the only grippier tire is Tojo. That looks like a 'phone app, what is that? Are those simulations or actual GPS passes? The 60 ft & ETs are laughable.


I would have bought a quick shifter & tire, instead of all of that. Man, not even, just buy a new tire. - Aviation Electrician
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post #4 of 231 Unread 09-03-2018, 04:38 PM
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Very impressive work!

Based on your use of the bike, I'm a little curious as to why you didn't just go out and buy a ZX-10R instead of spending all the time and money..

Also, what is your source that the Akro pipe doesn't need a tune other than personal experience? Do you have any AFR data? Did your Ivan tune affect fueling at all? I would certainly like to hear that someone with a 2017-18 has the same opinion...

Speed Thrills.
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post #5 of 231 Unread 09-03-2018, 09:57 PM
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Good job, allways interesting to see somebody going inside the engine to make changes and venturing out on your own, i went the lazy route on the flashing since ivan has years experience and a dyno plus owning the bike to test out his findings i trust his work, let us know if you find something else in your quest. Colonel has his info bass ackwards the earlier years do make a little more power, according to the dynos i have seen.

2012 N1000 spark bl and gray ABS
Tail tidy
Urban brawlers
V/h DB killers sitting on the shelf collecting dust
Givi rack and topcase
Puig smoked wind screen
oem gel seat set
Rascal grafiks tank pad
Grip puppies
SW Motech ninja 1000 quick connect gps mount with navi bag
2014 air filter and holey bottom plate
Go Cruise Throttle lock
Ivans ECU flash
Bridgestone S21's
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post #6 of 231 Unread 09-03-2018, 11:06 PM
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I think I know you, and cannot thank you enough for helping me on my flywheel mod. I believe I even gave you credit for inventing it.

Flywheel arrives, and I HAD to go on vacation......it just sits there, on the bench, waiting for weight watchers to start.waiting.....,
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post #7 of 231 Unread 09-03-2018, 11:34 PM
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Oh, and I do have to ask another question.

I suspect your mapping was right on, with stock cams.

How much did it change when you replaced them with the earlier versions?

And what about velocity stacks? We have choices there. My earlier bike has......2 short and 2 long. I'm not quite sure I remember their exact position. I believe the shorts were in the middle? That's from memory...they coukd just as easily be on the outside.

2012 Ninja 1000
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post #8 of 231 Unread 09-04-2018, 05:46 AM
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I had the same setup on my fz1 RC. I think my 2 shorter ones were in the middle 2 cylinders as well. Colonel, he had the measurements for lift and duration of both the earlier cams an his cam. Running a more aggressive cam with correct mapping will yield higher peak power I'm sure. And the newer bikes really start to fall on their face in the upper rpms. I pretty much have done the same thing on my 01 triumph tt600. The 2000 cams for that bike are known to have a higher lift at .5mm. I'm unsure of the duration in comparison to the 2001. But I can tell you that mapped out, the bike is now a screamer all the way to redline. I did lose a little punch under 5k but for a track bike does that even matter?
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post #9 of 231 Unread 09-04-2018, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Hello guys and thank you for your comments. I will address each post.

1. Colonel- Unfortunately you are incorrect in all of your statements. I am a Mechanical Engineer for what that is worth.

2. motoman- It was my first bike, a ZX10R seems alittle intimidating to me and the price was alittle more then I wanted to spend. Looking back, yes maybe I should of bought a zx10r instead for the riding that I do... however I REALLY like this bike because of its comfort and ability to ride 400+ miles in a day and not feel pain the next day....while riding it like a SS bike. The plan is to add a zx10r next to this bike soon. Seeing that the 2019 is not a new model I will wait for 2020. The time spent on the bike was not to much compared to the time I spend on modding cars. So this was easy peasy for me. I never got ivans tune on my bike. However I spoke to him many of times and he has given me valuable information. The AFRS on the akra pipe no tune is relatively rich on the top end just like stock and slightly lean on the low/mid range like stock. Nothing drastic. The bike is a different animal with just the akra system no tune. Weight alone is a HUGE factor.

3. Mark59 - Ivan is the real deal. No question there. I just wanted flexibility, and the ability to venture out of the standard mods.

4. rcannon409- That's me! You are welcome and thank you for formatting the post. The flywheel has proved to be solid to this date. This weekend I put about 600 HARD miles on her with zero issues. Changed oil and looked good. I am reving the bike out to 11,650 now and pulls to redline like nothing. 6th gear 20mph to 165mph without struggle. Yes on the 3rd gen it is 2 inner short and 2 outer long stacks. I think 2 inner long would be better though from looking at other platforms. The 4th gen comes with an airfilter box that has more air volume after the filter then the 3rd gen which would allow for better distribution of the air and better low/mid range TQ. 4th gen also has the longest velocity stacks for lower end TQ. So I am getting the best of both worlds. The shorter stacks DO NOT hurt the TQ output one bit with the 3rd gen cam. 4th gen cam liked the 2nd to shortest stacks. The velocity stacks do require additional fuel.

5. Chdrummerdude - Yes the cam specs are all in the OEM manuals aswell. It was cheap to buy a new cam from kawasaki for me so no harm and valves were all in spec at 16k. It transformed the bike with the supporting mods. Bike did not loose any lower end power IMO, but im always riding 6k+ at all times. This bike gets no breaks. AMSOIL keeps it nice a lubed.

Thanks!
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Last edited by proto2o; 09-04-2018 at 10:01 AM.
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post #10 of 231 Unread 09-04-2018, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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To answer Colonel question on the app used.

Here is a link

dragy - GPS Based Performance Meter - Free Shipping in USA

I am no drag racer, however I will learn and improve. What are you running Colonel to think my times are laughable? Post up some factual data.

Thanks
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