Hello All - Figured I'd share how this install went.
Product Link: https://kosonorthamerica.com/shop/mo...wist-throttle/
Album of Pics: https://imgur.com/a/ygBtREH
So why these? Well, I hate having stuff sticking our everywhere on my bike and this is a REALLY clean heated grip with its integrated controller. It did mean spending some extra cash, but for me this was well worth it.
This was a tricky install as I did NOT want to cut the grips like what was done in this WebBikeWorld Article: https://www.webbikeworld.com/koso-ap...-grips-review/
- My research had found that I was going to probably run into issues with this as I would have had to trim even further than what was done in the article. The throttle side being the biggest issue. Instead, I chose to do some relocating of the controls to avoid this.
Step 1 - Remove left side fairing and seat. Plenty of posts on this. Need to do this to gain access to the accesory harness
Step 2? Remove the bar ends and grips. The bar ends are ridiculously tight - pick up a #3 Phillips bit (get several) and have an electric or air powered impact gun. My hand held impact did NOTHING to loosen them. My battery powered impact also did not budge them. I ended up using adapters and my big boy impact to finally loosen them both. Didn't need full throttle, but it was the only thing that would break them loose. I went through 2 bits total and you need #3's or you'll 100% have the joy of drilling them out.
Removing the grips wasn't too bad - I used my air gun and blew air under them while pulling them off. They were not glued on too much.
Step 3 - install left side grip...
The left side was pretty simple - Taking off the plastic hand controls housing for the blinker and headlight reveals that it has a "pin" and that catches a hole in the bars to keep it located. As there was quite a bit of room, I was able to loosen and slide the clutch lever as far inward as I could (it can interfere, so depending on the angle you like your controls at, it may limit how far in you'll be able to move it). This allowed me to easily make up the slightly more than 1/4" in length difference (with the heated grips being longer).
I was able to center punch the location of the new hole, and simply drilled it. I chose the drill bit side by using the existing hole for reference. I test fitted everything with the bar end installed and it was perfect. Set the final position for the clutch lever and tightened it down, and reinstalled the hand controls housing. The fit of the grip is very tight on the bars - and its not flexible either. I ended up installing with some windex which has worked for me in the past. Air was useless as there was no flexibility in the grip. Its tight and doesn't rotate so it should be ok.
When installing this grip, remember it has the controls, so get the angle for the controls that you want.
Step 4 - This was the FUN one.... Unlike the left side, the brake master cylinder ends up interfering with the clip ons. This limits the amount that everything can be moved inward. What made it even more fun is that both the hand controls, and the throttle control are "pinned" the same way, so there are 2 holes to relocate.
I started with moving the brake in as far as I could and quickly realized that it was probably not going to be quite far enough. I was barely able to get 1/4" out of it. From there, I did the same procedure to move the controls, measure and center punch to get the holes as close as possible to where they needed to be. I messed up some on the controls pod and had to open up that hole some. Did the same for the throttle tube - watch the drill sizes here, they have different hole sizes for the "pins" in the plastic housings.
Once that was all said and done, I found that there is a lip on the throttle tube that must be shaved off with a sharp knife or razerblade. The heated grips are pretty solid and it will not slide over that. With that trimmed off, I was able to use windex again, and slide the grip in place. It was not easy and I have no doubt that it will not have any issues with slipping. The throttle tube has some raised portions that also bite into the grip well.
A word of caution though - In the pics you can see how I positioned the wire - it will need to be located in such a way it is facing the rider, but enough slack must be kept so that the throttle can fully rotate. Obviously, you want to try and get this right without having to slide the grip on and off as it is not easy to do! It is a very tight fit.
For this side, unfortunately I had to space out the bar end. With it tightened down, it interfered with the grip and kept it from turning. It took (2) 1/2" (I think, don't quote on me on this) washers that I found fit perfectly inside the bar ends cup. The bolt was long enough to get a decent number of threads on and this provided the perfect clearance with the grip. (have a pic of this!)
Step 5 - Wiring
This is very easy on this bike - I ran the wire from the throttle side neatly, securing it with zip ties to existing wiring harness and over to the passenger side. I connected the grips to the accessory connectors in the fairing there with bullet connectors, and then tested everything.
I did not replace the 2A fuse with a 4A one yet, but with my meter in line, it did pull 2.5 amps off the battery (with a charger connected) on the highest setting. I'll try and update this post with the current measurements for all the settings, but IIRC - with high being 2.5, the rest of the settings simply stepped backward a .5 amp with low only pulling a .5 amp. The fuse surprisingly held that for about 10 minutes of testing that I did at which the grips were already quite warm (less than 120* as I was able to hold my hands on them). I will be replacing that fuse with a 4A one shortly.
WebbikeWorld has a nice chart about the temps that they measured after a period of time. Its pretty spot on with what I have found thus far.
With everything tested, I finished tidying everything up, heated up the shrink tubing I installed and made sure all the wiring was secured.
At this point, I haven't gotten the bike fully back together, but I am looking forward to having some much toastier hands in the near future as the mornings here will be quite chilly for another 1.5 months or so!
All in all, I took my time on this and probably spent about 2 hours, not counting pulling the fairing off to complete the task. A GOOD center punch is your friend for this to get the holes drilled reasonably accurately.