Added Moto Werks peg lowering blocks and brake lever nut - Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 03-24-2019, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Added Moto Werks peg lowering blocks and brake lever nut

I'm only 5'10," w/a 30" inseam but at 58+, my knees and hips get uncomfortable on longer rides and w/me, it's all about comfort when I ride now.

So last week I ordered the Moto Werks set up, blocks and brake lever nut, to give me a skosh more leg, hip & knee room. I swear the things arrived about 10m after I ordered them. All parts look rock solid & appear to be some nice quality stuff.

Now, I don't not have a spatially-oriented mind; it's one of the reasons I often farm out mechanical work but I had the day free and decided to give this a go. I printed up the directions off the Moto Werks site, only to discover that the directions for the N1K were intended for the 650 model Kawis. That was confusing at first until I figured it out. Moto Werks needs to change that link. Luckily, there was another link for the Z1000; I figured that would be close enough, and it was.

Overall, even w/my skill package & tool set, I was able to figure it out. I got both pegs and the brake lever nut done in under 2 hours. Some of the directions were a tad confusing tho. For example, when installing the right side peg, they tell you to use the left lowering block. Huh? Ok, I figured they knew better than me but it's an obvious typo. They really need to work on the instruction sheets and pictures.

Once I got it figured out, the actual install wasn't bad and I didn't lose much blood in the process. Probably the worst part was trying to loosen the nut holding the little cage around the rod assembly. Here's a hint- hit it w/a shot of WD40 first. After struggling w/that thing for 15m, the WD40 freed it up in less than 3m. Another bitch was trying to remove the cotter pin off the backside of the brake adjustment pin. Crikey, could Kawi have squeezed it into a smaller place?

Another small challenge was setting the brake pedal height w/the new brake adjustment pin. I was hoping to drop the pedal low but that set off the brake switch, so it took a bit of trial and error, as well as loosening the part of the lower fairing that attaches down there, to get it to set as low as possible w/out triggering the switch.

Outside of those minor issues and the instructions snafu, it all went well and, ta-da, near-instant additional legroom. Yeah, it's only an incremental amount but I took the bike for a short ride and I could tell the difference. Heck, I'll take anything to open up the riding position a bit.

If I can believe the number of cycle-ergo.com web page, between all the comfort mods I've done, my bike now sits more open than the FJR1300 I've been eyeing, but still not as open as the Versys 1000, altho it's dang close.
Lee

Last edited by spectreman; 03-24-2019 at 08:22 PM.
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post #2 of 14 Old 03-24-2019, 09:17 PM
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Love my Motowerks lowered pegs. I'd have probably never had them except I picked up a used VFR with them on it. Didn't seem like a lot of difference but after riding that bike, getting back on the identical VFR I was selling felt cramped. As did the Ninja until I picked up the lowering blocks. Makes all the difference to my older knees.


And you're right, the hardest part was resetting the darn brake light/lever.

2014 Ninja w/bags, Motowerks lowered pegs, Seth Lamm Seat, Puig screen, Givi XS307 tank bag, WOLO BadBoy horn, LEDPerf H7C HID lights, Aerostitch Roadcrafter
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post #3 of 14 Old 03-25-2019, 10:49 AM
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You knwo that switch is adjustable. You dont even need tools to adjust it. I know this video is not of the correct bike but you are used to that! LOL

Plastic into plastic and it just twists. Like this:

trialsguy likes this.

Please consider the impact on the environment before printing this message.
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post #4 of 14 Old 03-25-2019, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spectreman View Post
I'm only 5'10," w/a 30" inseam but at 58+, my knees and hips get uncomfortable on longer rides and w/me, it's all about comfort when I ride now.

So last week I ordered the Moto Werks set up, blocks and brake lever nut, to give me a skosh more leg, hip & knee room. I swear the things arrived about 10m after I ordered them. All parts look rock solid & appear to be some nice quality stuff.

Now, I don't not have a spatially-oriented mind; it's one of the reasons I often farm out mechanical work but I had the day free and decided to give this a go. I printed up the directions off the Moto Werks site, only to discover that the directions for the N1K were intended for the 650 model Kawis. That was confusing at first until I figured it out. Moto Werks needs to change that link. Luckily, there was another link for the Z1000; I figured that would be close enough, and it was.

Overall, even w/my skill package & tool set, I was able to figure it out. I got both pegs and the brake lever nut done in under 2 hours. Some of the directions were a tad confusing tho. For example, when installing the right side peg, they tell you to use the left lowering block. Huh? Ok, I figured they knew better than me but it's an obvious typo. They really need to work on the instruction sheets and pictures.

Once I got it figured out, the actual install wasn't bad and I didn't lose much blood in the process. Probably the worst part was trying to loosen the nut holding the little cage around the rod assembly. Here's a hint- hit it w/a shot of WD40 first. After struggling w/that thing for 15m, the WD40 freed it up in less than 3m. Another bitch was trying to remove the cotter pin off the backside of the brake adjustment pin. Crikey, could Kawi have squeezed it into a smaller place?

Another small challenge was setting the brake pedal height w/the new brake adjustment pin. I was hoping to drop the pedal low but that set off the brake switch, so it took a bit of trial and error, as well as loosening the part of the lower fairing that attaches down there, to get it to set as low as possible w/out triggering the switch.

Outside of those minor issues and the instructions snafu, it all went well and, ta-da, near-instant additional legroom. Yeah, it's only an incremental amount but I took the bike for a short ride and I could tell the difference. Heck, I'll take anything to open up the riding position a bit.

If I can believe the number of cycle-ergo.com web page, between all the comfort mods I've done, my bike now sits more open than the FJR1300 I've been eyeing, but still not as open as the Versys 1000, altho it's dang close.
Lee
Lee,

I went through the same process a couple of years ago when I did mine. I also put peg lowerers on my last bike, an '08 Versys 650. My 63 year old hip joints and knee joints really appreciate it.

I put Murph's bar risers on last Fall. Very comfy, but needs more testing, once the snow melts here.

Dave
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post #5 of 14 Old 03-25-2019, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcannon409 View Post
You knwo that switch is adjustable. You dont even need tools to adjust it. I know this video is not of the correct bike but you are used to that! LOL

Plastic into plastic and it just twists. Like this:
Yep, and with it adjusted all the way to the bottom of it's range it was still too short. Ended up mangling the spring to make it activate the brake light right.
But I think we're talking about the saddle and locknut to adjust the brake lever height. PITA to adjust and, again, at the end of it's range, still left the brake pedal too high. Motowerks sells a replacement part that works better but I still ended up buying a thinner nut to get the adjustment to work.

2014 Ninja w/bags, Motowerks lowered pegs, Seth Lamm Seat, Puig screen, Givi XS307 tank bag, WOLO BadBoy horn, LEDPerf H7C HID lights, Aerostitch Roadcrafter
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post #6 of 14 Old 03-26-2019, 05:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcannon409 View Post
You knwo that switch is adjustable. You dont even need tools to adjust it. I know this video is not of the correct bike but you are used to that! LOL

Plastic into plastic and it just twists. Like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5gT02TVCro
Nope, didn't know that- thanks for the tip.
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post #7 of 14 Old 03-26-2019, 05:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trialsguy View Post
Lee,

I went through the same process a couple of years ago when I did mine. I also put peg lowerers on my last bike, an '08 Versys 650. My 63 year old hip joints and knee joints really appreciate it.

I put Murph's bar risers on last Fall. Very comfy, but needs more testing, once the snow melts here.

Dave
Murph's was one of the first mods I did. Vast imrpovement for me. I think I got some of the original ones where there is a little pin that locks the angle in place. I would like the abilitity to rotate the grip a bit more but it's not that big an issue for me.
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post #8 of 14 Old 03-26-2019, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kenors View Post
Motowerks sells a replacement part that works better but I still ended up buying a thinner nut to get the adjustment to work.
I installed one the Motowerks brake adjustment pins and it does provide a bit more room, I'd guess 1/2" but even w/that, I'd still like to drop the brake pedal down another 1/2" or more so my foot isn't riding on or near the pedal.
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-27-2019, 08:54 PM
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Congrats on a successful install. I'm sure you checked this already but just in case, test out the rear brake lamp switch to ensure it comes on when the pedal is pressed lightly and turns off when released. If it does not, you need to adjust the switch connected to the rear brake pedal.

Enjoy the cozy ride!

W-
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-27-2019, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wrenchie View Post
Congrats on a successful install. I'm sure you checked this already but just in case, test out the rear brake lamp switch to ensure it comes on when the pedal is pressed lightly and turns off when released. If it does not, you need to adjust the switch connected to the rear brake pedal.

Enjoy the cozy ride!

W-
Yup, already done but thanks for the tip!
Lee
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