ECU Flash 2018 N1K - Mail In Service - Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum
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post #1 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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ECU Flash 2018 N1K - Mail In Service

It was suggested that I start a new thread on my experience so first I hope this is the right place to put this and if it is not would a mod please move it to the appropriate place.

I recently installed a full Black Widow exhaust on my 2018 N1K and have been very satisfied so far and I had intended to place it on the dyno here in my town to see the difference (if any) between the stock exhaust and the Black Widow. In the interest of making sure the bike wasn't running lean/rich I wanted to get my ECU flashed with a custom map based on a free flowing exhaust and K&N filter so I came out here to this forum to do some research.

After doing some searches out here I saw several threads about the 2017/18 N1K's having issues getting flashes due to the ECU's being encrypted. There did appear to be some options though 1) send to Woolich and they can hack into the ECU and apply a map or 2) send to Nel's (2Wheel Dynoworks) and they would send to Woolich for the hack and then 2WDW would apply a custom map. Since 2WDW advertised on their site that they had a custom map for the 2018 N1K and supported Black Widow I thought I'd send to them.

I sent 2WDW an email asking about their service and they very promptly answered me back. They assured me that they indeed did support the 2018 and have had good results with both the 2017/18. They also said that they'd turn it around within 24 hours. I was a bit skeptical at this after reading several threads out here but even if they did have to send it to Woolich and it took longer I really wanted to get it done so I took the chance. I overnighted it (super expensive btw) to them on Wed (8/1). They received it at noon the next day and shipped it back out to me at 4:30p on 8/2. I received it back from them on Saturday 8/4. This was pretty impressive to me.

When I put it in the bike everything started up fine and I had no errors or warnings. Throttle response was smoother for sure, engine braking was slightly less in my opinion and the bike runs cooler. The fan definitely turns on sooner now. Supposedly the RPM limits have been adjusted but I'm not certain if that means the rev limit is different or if that relates to something else...if someone knows please educate me. All that was good. What I'm not sure about is all the popping and crackling on deceleration and I'm getting a pop up shifting between some gears. Below is a link to the video I released tonight kind of covering the above so you all can hear what I'm talking about.

Really interested to hear what you guys think about this, I have submitted the same video to 2WDW to get a response from them as well. I suspect that something is off but then again I'm absolutely not an expert. Extra power would be great but what I'm really after is just a smooth bike that sounds good and I want to make sure that I'm not damaging anything with the aftermarket exhaust.

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post #2 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 08:31 AM
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When you send ecu's, a really cheap (cheaper?)way of doing it is using the post office Mylar envelopes....No boxes...It has to be the envelope.

The envelope is flat rate, 25.00, anywhere in the USA.Closer to 30 all insured. Fed Ex, or UPS can often times be 100, or more, as you know.

I'm not sure how many times I shipped Utah to New York. Probably close to 10 shipments. 2 times they were late,..and that's if I shipped out on Saturday, looking for a Monday morning delivery. The others don't even have that available. The two times they were late, they gave me the money back.

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post #3 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 08:41 AM
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I was the first 2017/18 N1K owner that Two WheelDynoWorks/Woolich worked with .....

Did you disconnect your O2 sensor?
Popping can occur when there are leaks in your exhaust (ie: where the headers mount, or where the header meets the muffler)
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post #4 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooldaddygroove View Post
I was the first 2017/18 N1K owner that Two WheelDynoWorks/Woolich worked with .....

Did you disconnect your O2 sensor?
Popping can occur when there are leaks in your exhaust (ie: where the headers mount, or where the header meets the muffler)
I did not disconnect the O2 sensor and 2WDW replied to email last night after I posted this and the video (really responsive these guys and it remains impressive, great customer service) They said I need to remove the O2 sensor and perform a PAIR mod. The O2 sensor is easy and I'll get that tonight. As for the other, I'll start doing my homework today. All seems reasonable to me and I dont think any of it is beyond an afternoon in the garage. I will also check aggressively for exhaust leaks but I have done a not so aggressive hands around the pipes and I'm not detecting any air movement.

Thanks for the assistance! Any advice on the PAIR mod guys? I'll start searching but if any of you know of a thread that details this I'd be grateful. I'm glad to hear that this is probably not something serious at this point and just requires so additional modifications. I'll keep everyone updated!
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post #5 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcannon409 View Post
When you send ecu's, a really cheap (cheaper?)way of doing it is using the post office Mylar envelopes....No boxes...It has to be the envelope.

The envelope is flat rate, 25.00, anywhere in the USA.Closer to 30 all insured. Fed Ex, or UPS can often times be 100, or more, as you know.

I'm not sure how many times I shipped Utah to New York. Probably close to 10 shipments. 2 times they were late,..and that's if I shipped out on Saturday, looking for a Monday morning delivery. The others don't even have that available. The two times they were late, they gave me the money back.
Yes, I should have considered that but when I first pulled it from the bike and considered I was basically shipping a computer I wanted to be sure that it was protected and I think I may have been a little over zealous about that which cost me $$$. Live and learn but I appreciate the advice and if I ever have to do that again I'll know what to do. Thank you!
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post #6 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 09:45 AM
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Another great video! Watching your video I was thinking two things I would probably try, the PAIR mod and/or switch out your K&N filter back to stock and see if that reduces the popping. I have the cat still on my bike but I have Delkavic slip-ons with the stock air filter. I have very small subtle slightly air leaks on my pipes I can feel on my finger tips where it connects to the slip-on but iv never paid much attention to it because I have never had a single pop on deceleration or shifting.
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post #7 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 09:46 AM
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The ecu is back, and in one piece.....thats hard to complain about, no matter the price.



Regarding the Pair Valve.....You dont exactly need to remove it, now, or forever. I ended up removing mine when I added a power commander as I already had the plastic off, and the tank removed.


For you, right now, your bike does not need plugs, or the power commander. If you want to avoid digging into your bike, all you really need to do is stop the air from entering the valve.


My bike is a California emissions equipped bike, and yours is newer, so it might be different. I had two hoses to block. Both were accessible from the inside of the airbox.


I dont think this picture is of a ninja 1000 pair valve, but they are all so similar, it does not matter.


If you block the open hose, that wont let air into the system. That hose connects to the bottom of the airbox. I think people used marbles, 3/8 bolts...pretty much anything to stop the air flow into it, and it works just fine.
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post #8 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Can you guys help me to identify the right air hole to block in the airbox? Please see the image below of the 2018 N1K airbox. Which one red or green....or maybe that isn't it either? Thank you in advance for your assistance!

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post #9 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 11:14 AM
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The red line is what you want...the drawing is not great, for this one.

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post #10 of 40 Old 08-06-2018, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcannon409 View Post
The red line is what you want...the drawing is not great, for this one.
Just curious, whats the green line one for?
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