Bar end mirrors/Mirror delete - Page 5 - Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum
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post #41 of 62 Old 10-25-2018, 12:09 PM
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Heat,even just a little, is the best method of tackling the factory red thread locker.
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post #42 of 62 Old 10-25-2018, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
Heat,even just a little, is the best method of tackling the factory red thread locker.
Thank you.

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post #43 of 62 Old 10-26-2018, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rcannon409 View Post
Will one of you guys, who are computer savy, please come up with an under 200.00 rearview camera?

I picture a camera mounted above the rear tail light, and a monitor on the dash. There has to be a way.

Something like this, but maybe dont put the monitor where it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktiKelsdMGQ
There's a guy around me locally that gets chinese stuff and charges like $69

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post #44 of 62 Old 10-26-2018, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cooldaddygroove View Post
I just spacers on my stock mirrors and any issues I had were resolved. Cost all of $1
Spacers just put the mirrors further out to the side? I need them to come closer to my face

2016 N1K - Spark Black, Metallic Gray

Taylor33 Reflective Rim Tape, Urban Brawlers, Gear Indicator, Shogun Frame Sliders, Passenger Grip, Two-Tone levers, Mo-Door Opener, Puig Dark Smoke Windscreen, anodized green bolts, Mini Spools, Sargent & Kawasaki Gel Seats, XKGlow LED kit w/smartbrake, optiMATE phone charger, 2-Way Alarm, XK Glow LED headlights, N1K & DeV Inner Rim Stickers, HVMP ex heavy bar ends, RAM mount X grip, Kawi seat bag, Ivan's Flash, BMC air filter, LED signals and relay
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post #45 of 62 Old 10-26-2018, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by AlphaZed View Post
I'm trying to remove the stock bar ends as we speak. With previous bikes, with a pneumatic impact driver, I removed the bar ends in seconds. With my N1K though, I stripped the phillips head and didn't loosen it at all. Suspect the same thing will happen on the other side. :-(

Anyone know the secret to remove them?
On my 2016, I read that it was like 1 out of every 4 were a beast to get off....mine came off relatively easy.....one thing that I did notice was that a standard phillips attachment didn't fit quite right...had to use one of the odd, rarely used attachments in my kit and it fit like a glove.....attached to the ratchet and a little muscle popped it loose...

2016 N1K - Spark Black, Metallic Gray

Taylor33 Reflective Rim Tape, Urban Brawlers, Gear Indicator, Shogun Frame Sliders, Passenger Grip, Two-Tone levers, Mo-Door Opener, Puig Dark Smoke Windscreen, anodized green bolts, Mini Spools, Sargent & Kawasaki Gel Seats, XKGlow LED kit w/smartbrake, optiMATE phone charger, 2-Way Alarm, XK Glow LED headlights, N1K & DeV Inner Rim Stickers, HVMP ex heavy bar ends, RAM mount X grip, Kawi seat bag, Ivan's Flash, BMC air filter, LED signals and relay
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post #46 of 62 Old 10-26-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
Heat,even just a little, is the best method of tackling the factory red thread locker.
Thank you. I ended up just drilling the phillips head screws out. I'll replace the screws with a hex or Torx head...

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post #47 of 62 Old 10-27-2018, 10:55 AM
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The secret to removing the "phillips" screws, on motorcycles is that they are not Phillips.


You need "JIS" bits to do the job, properly. The bar ends are sized #3 JIS. If you get these, you wont have any more issues. Ive not seen these locally, but online is no problem.



You can get individual bits, much cheaper, too. Size 1 and 2 is more common, on our bikes, but the #3 is a must have for the bar ends. With these, you can break loose the locking agent they use, although some heat works much better.



25.00 option....https://www.z1enterprises.com/jis-sc...hoC7sQQAvD_BwE


I like this one, too....


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Screwdriver...6d7c:rk:4:pf:0
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post #48 of 62 Old 10-27-2018, 08:43 PM
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For those stubborn screws I use a manual impact driver if the 3/8s battery operated one isn't handy or gets left on the job. Don't even try and grab the screw driver with two hands any more. The best part is the harder you hit it with a hammer the better it works. Only 17.00 dollars at the auto parts store and what looks like JIS bits came with it.
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post #49 of 62 Old 10-28-2018, 03:01 AM
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Screwdriver bit + socket + ratchet.

No drilling needed on mine.
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post #50 of 62 Old 10-29-2018, 08:30 AM
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impact driver with variable throttle... Push it as hard as ya can into the fastener and pull the trigger.

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