2017 Ninja 1000 Build - Kawasaki Ninja 1000 Forum
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post #1 of 53 Old 06-03-2017, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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2017 Ninja 1000 Build

Some of you may know me from RiderForums where I heavily modified a 2012 Ninja 1000. After a short foray in to zx14r ownership, I decided I wanted my Ninja back, and picked up a 2017 yesterday. Note: I will re-write this post and update it with pics and details, but for now, I have installed the following that were on my 2012

SpeedyMoto risers and clip-ons to lower the bars, and change the bar angle.
Lightech rearsets
SW-Motech rack (still some fiddling to do, mostly with spacers) but everything lines up
Sargent seat - Yup, direct bolt on

Next up...

SW-motech frame sliders
GPS and Radar power and mounting
Rear shock - I have access to a Nitron R2 or an Ohlins
Exhaust - may just do an Arrow 4 into 2 header again as I really like the stock mufflers. But, I also have access to a single sided full Akro system (not sure I like the long pipe)
ECU Flash - looking at Two Wheel Dyno Works in Seattle to see if they have anything

Let the mods begin!!!!
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post #2 of 53 Old 06-03-2017, 01:49 PM
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Welcome, it's nice when one of the good mines finally shows up!

I'll be anxious to hear about the nitron shock. I think is choose it before the ohlins.
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post #3 of 53 Old 06-03-2017, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the radar detector mount set up isn't the most elegant, but its solid as a rock. Bummer that the mirrors on the '17 don't have a bolt that I could replace with a RAM bolt (unless someone has polled the mirrors off and can show me what they look like.

Power was easy. Behind the left front fairing, near the headlight, is a positive and negative which is connected to the 7.5 Amp "Accessory" fuse under the seat. More than enough to power my GPS and Radar Detector.

Oh, and no need to remove that round blank in the dash (which I did, and is a PITA because it is held in place by a metal flange, which is removed via a Philips screw. You would need to remove the fairing to get at it, or do what I did, which is pry it out a little, then get a set of needle nose pliers in there and bend one of the tabs)

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Last edited by cooldaddygroove; 06-03-2017 at 03:08 PM.
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post #4 of 53 Old 06-03-2017, 06:10 PM
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Hey cooldaddy some input on going from a nk1 to the zx14r, ive been pondering over that move myself, find it interesting you come back to the nk1. Would definately lie to here from you on that subject.

2012 N1000 spark bl and gray ABS
Tail tidy
Urban brawlers
V/h DB killers sitting on the shelf collecting dust
Givi rack and topcase
Puig smoked wind screen
oem gel seat set
Rascal grafiks tank pad
Grip puppies
SW Motech ninja 1000 quick connect gps mount with navi bag
2014 air filter and holey bottom plate
Go Cruise Throttle lock
Ivans ECU flash
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post #5 of 53 Old 06-03-2017, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the local dealer was blowing out the 2014 zx14r's, so myself and two ridng buddies bought up their inventory. I modded mine heavily, including a Nitron R2 rear shock, front fork work, single sided full yosh system, an SW-Motech rack, 55 series rear tire, rearsets, and a flash from Two Wheel Dyno Works in Seattle. I probably shaved 40lbs off the thing, and while it put out 198bhp at the wheel and a torque curve that was flat as a pancake, in the end, what I didn't like was:

(1) Ergos - I just couldn't make it work (6'0" with a 31" inseam). I needed the pegs to be back, like 4-6" (you laugh)
(2) The weight - walking it backwards, or turning it in my garage sucked
(3) Steering - it never had that confident feeling
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post #6 of 53 Old 06-03-2017, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooldaddygroove View Post
Well, the local dealer was blowing out the 2014 zx14r's, so myself and two ridng buddies bought up their inventory. I modded mine heavily, including a Nitron R2 rear shock, front fork work, single sided full yosh system, an SW-Motech rack, 55 series rear tire, rearsets, and a flash from Two Wheel Dyno Works in Seattle. I probably shaved 40lbs off the thing, and while it put out 198bhp at the wheel and a torque curve that was flat as a pancake, in the end, what I didn't like was:

(1) Ergos - I just couldn't make it work (6'0" with a 31" inseam). I needed the pegs to be back, like 4-6" (you laugh)
(2) The weight - walking it backwards, or turning it in my garage sucked
(3) Steering - it never had that confident feeling
The nk1 is pretty easy to handle thnks for your reply on the subject, ill probably just keep the nk1. Congrats on the new nk1 enjoy riding it.

2012 N1000 spark bl and gray ABS
Tail tidy
Urban brawlers
V/h DB killers sitting on the shelf collecting dust
Givi rack and topcase
Puig smoked wind screen
oem gel seat set
Rascal grafiks tank pad
Grip puppies
SW Motech ninja 1000 quick connect gps mount with navi bag
2014 air filter and holey bottom plate
Go Cruise Throttle lock
Ivans ECU flash
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post #7 of 53 Old 06-03-2017, 08:44 PM
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I came to my 2013 N1K after owning several ZX-14's (a 2007 and a 2010). For me it was a case of too much power (I know, is there such a thing?) and the long wheelbase which made it not as much fun in the twisties.
A fantastic bike though - great as a long distance sport-touring bike - just not as good a fit for me as the N1K.

Rob
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post #8 of 53 Old 06-04-2017, 02:10 AM
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by cooldaddygroove View Post
Sargent seat - Yup, direct bolt on
So the older seats listed on the site do fit? Sargent won't even admit to that...

Wearing all your Gear is like using Condoms...you don't have to but, do you feel lucky?
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post #9 of 53 Old 06-04-2017, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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All I can tell you is the Sargent Rider seat fits, and fits with the new passenger seat
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post #10 of 53 Old 06-04-2017, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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